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Messages - Rocmon

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31
Pond Chat / Re: Pond Filter Questions
« on: February 07, 2008, 05:56:45 PM »
Don't know anything about your pond. I wouldn't rely on a do it all filter, even if your pond is 700 gallons. You want a good mechanical filter, and a separate good biofilter, among other things. Some people use canister filters for polishing the water, after all the other filtration has occurred.

Check out koiphen.com or koishack.com in the pond construction/filtration areas. Koiphen has a huge page of all different kinds of filters if your at all inclined to DIY—last link, lots of pictures—have to join for the pics...

http://www.koiquest.co.uk/filters.htm

http://www.catson4ponds.com/FilterOverview.html

http://www.koiphen.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=66

http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38259

32
Pond Chat / Re: Okay I QUIT!
« on: February 07, 2008, 05:36:46 PM »
I've treed a few coons with the hose—they really don't like being hosed, or barked at. I do a mean dog bark for fear factor. But they do come back, soon. I've hit them close range with an old pellet gun too. That makes them angry and one turned as if he was going to charge. If your not going lethal I'd recommend a big stick (baseball bat, golf club, whatever your sport) to back up your talk with them. Better safe than bitten.

33
Pond Chat / Re: 'Coons. $#@#%&*! Now it's MY turn! @(&$@&#%!!
« on: February 07, 2008, 05:26:20 PM »
I feel your pain.

When my older GF get big enough they just disappear, usually the prettiest ones first. Electric wires (ugly) don't seem to keep them away all the time. They also said I'm not allowed to grow lotus. Three pots last spring, second year of robust growth shredded and eaten. Then a month or so ago they finished off my last lotus pot. My wife won't let me fertilize with systemic rose food, I see it as end of problem...

34
Pond Chat / Re: Fish Photos, please add yours!
« on: December 06, 2007, 04:16:09 PM »
Here are most of the herd, some have disappeared with the help of the local wildlife. I'm going to trap raccoons one of these nights, spraying with the hose doesn't phase them much...





35
Here is a pruner for reaching out into the pond. They come in lengths starting at about 2' on. They are great for pruning dead leaves and flowers from lilies or other plants. One draw back is they do have a few parts that want to rust, but if you dry it out after use it doesn't seem to be much of a problem.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index=blended&field-keywords=ars%20pruner&results-process=default&dispatch=search/ref=pd_sl_aw_tops-1_blended_29165105_1&results-process=default

Some come with a ("cut and hold") gripper blade:
http://www.terratech.net/product.asp?specific=jqhmfnp4

I've made a stick with a piece of thick coat hanger wire formed into a very small hook ~1/4" attached to one end for lifting pots and moving them around. Not nearly as sturdy as Esther's pole hook though.

Does one have to be old and decrepit, or just lazy and smart?

Building a pond in a way that prevents a great deal of labor can be done, you just have to build it that way.

36
Pond Chat / Re: In Pond Pump vs. Out of Pond Pump
« on: November 21, 2007, 06:18:21 PM »
Your Becket pump does the job... "3560 gallons/hour @ 1" lift 300 watts, 2.5 A"
 
Can you get a more efficient pump? Yes

From Posts above;

"WLim 1/15 3000gph @ 3.4' head  1.3 amps"     115volts x 1.3 ~ 150 watts

"The 3600SEQ12 that I'm using now uses 160 watts." 3600 GPH Max Flow -2800 GPH @ 4ft. - 1800 GPH @ 8ft.

"W.Lim Wave 1 1/8th — 3960 gph @ 215 watts that's at 3.47' of head."

Your quibble room is 150 watts or there abouts. Replace 2 – 100 watt incandescent bulbs in your house that are on most all the time and replace them with compact florescents. That's the power savings we're talking about...

37
Pond Chat / Re: In Pond Pump vs. Out of Pond Pump
« on: November 20, 2007, 03:03:37 PM »
2.7 amps is not an efficient pump, unless it's moving a great deal of water. The fine print:The three year warranty is for intermittent use.

The W.Lim I mentioned above uses about 90 watts less power, is designed to run 24/7/365, and pumps more water. But yes it will cost more money to buy the pump in the first place...

Bulldog specs: 4000gph@ 0' head, and 2200gph@10'

The Wave exceeds both of these, for 90 less watts

38
Pond Chat / Re: In Pond Pump vs. Out of Pond Pump
« on: November 16, 2007, 01:48:43 PM »
Just look at the specifications of the leading external pumps—Artesian, W.Lim, Sequence...



For example a W.Lim Wave 1 1/8th — 3960 gph @ 215 watts that's at 3.47' of head.
That's nearly 1/3rd less electric and maybe 1/3 more water for the external. Beckett 1" of head vs 41.5" head.
Go external if at all possible. They will cost a little more at the onset, but will probably outlast the submersible as well.

                   o(                                                                                o(

39
Pond Chat / Re: Pond temps up and down
« on: November 16, 2007, 01:33:33 PM »
I'm a little So. of SF and we're having the same kind of fluctuations. This is the first year I actually fed the fish, so when temps in the water hit about 60 I stopped feeding them. A while back I had water temps of near 50. They have slowed considerably and also stopped begging for food. As I'm rapidly losing lily pad cover, as the pond get little sun these days, I've added some duckweed which they went wild over, and recently some azolla. They seem content munching on whatever they find on the liner, but they aren't aggressively feeding.

Currently it's 58 but we've had a few warm days...

40
Pond Chat / Re: when do I quit feeding the fish for this season?
« on: November 04, 2007, 10:07:03 PM »
I didn't feed my fish for a couple of years, they were fine. It's mild here and there's usually something growing on the liner or in the plants roots. I feel guilty not feeding them now that it's gotten cooler—mid to upper 50's in the pond, but they seem fine and have stopped begging already.



                    o(                                         o(

41
Carnivorous Plants... / Re: Sarracenia - Canadian source?
« on: October 16, 2007, 10:26:32 PM »
http://www.californiacarnivores.com/ Not sure if they'll export to you, but I got some nice plants for a good price during their dormant plant sale. They don't list Canada as a place they ship to but you could e-mail them to see if the know of a grower north of the border.

There is also http://www.carnivorousplants.org/index.html for information.

42
Pond Construction & Filtration / Re: UV or not to UV?
« on: October 16, 2007, 10:12:30 PM »
You added filter pads to your biofilter outflow and are bummed they are collecting so much crud they are clogging? But the water is getting cleaner? Your on the right track there.

The mechanical filter which comes before the biofilter is where the physical debris should be collected. The biofilter is for biobugs to convert nitrates, nitrites, etc. to plant useful materials. It should not be a mechanical filter. Mine is to some degree because I also don't have adequate mechanical filtration. A bottom drain would also help to remove the construction crud.

Yes ponds take time to cycle. My pond when first starting up was getting quite green, just as the visibility seemed to be getting to be really bad the biofilter kicked in and in a few days the water was clear. Water changes can help to remove excess nutrients as well, but you need to give your biofilter some time to cycle. You also don't clean the filter media in it with hose water—just a pond water rinse.  The biobugs don't work much below 50–55 degrees. They say you can buy some expensive biobugs and your pond should take about six weeks to cycle, without them it could take as long as six weeks to cycle.

Green algae grows from an excess of nutrients. A UV filter kills green algae. The dead algae then releases the nutrients again for more... green algae. What you want to do is have adequate filtration to remove the crud and excess nutrients. Plants will help—Water hyacinth are great for this, I also have good luck with Watercress. You can't have to much filtration...

43
Pond Chat / Re: Foam for filters?
« on: October 16, 2007, 09:32:26 PM »
If water flows through it it should be useful, it could be a chore cleaning if it's thick.

44
Pond Chat / Re: Any ideas?
« on: October 16, 2007, 09:29:35 PM »
A couple of thoughts.

One is that outflow pipe would probably take a rubber coupling comes with a couple of hose clamps (plumbing supply store) to which you could add additional pipe length and move the filter back a ways and build a rock pile w/plants around it.

Second—I don't know what the inside of your filter looks like but up flow is supposed to be better. Attach your pump input hose to the outflow at the bottom and cut an opening very near the top to "overflow" out of the filter. Rearrange the filtration inside to work in upflow (course at the bottom fine at the top.) You could attach a spillway like in the skippys or simply cut a round hole and put in a bulk head fitting and run a pipe out from it. The filter could then be lowered into the ground by the height of the filter unit.

Was that 2 cents worth?

Oh, a pond is never finished... If your not messing with the existing one, your planning the next.

45
Pond Chat / Re: Where to Buy a Pump?
« on: September 08, 2007, 08:30:17 PM »
Are you thinking submersible pump? They are much less efficient than external pumps. If your just in planning stages consider an external pump.

Look at gph vs wattage to do that...

46
Pond Chat / Re: Liquid barley
« on: August 20, 2007, 09:00:43 PM »
Hydrogen peroxide is relatively harmless, except for string algae. If you can pour it directly on the algae it it's most effective that way... Pretty cheap at Costco...

47
Pond Chat / Re: Mosquito Control
« on: July 01, 2007, 09:28:39 PM »
Me too. I've got a 5 gal bucket out front near the pond where I put the mosquito fish I can catch, trying to keep the population down... Stop by, take 'em all... You can have the bucket too!

Last year I gave them to the vector control folks, but they trashed the pond some when they caught them. I decided this year I'd catch them myself.

The cheapest fish at a pet store here are the rosy red minnows or the feeder goldfish ~12 cents each...

48
Pond Chat / Re: Patch/Repair help needed immediately
« on: July 01, 2007, 09:22:25 PM »
Well, I hope the repair went well for you...

If not think of it as a place to install a bulkhead. Depending on the size of it you could simply put a bulkhead there, then screw in a threaded plug instead of a pipe. Means you'll have to actually cut a hole in the liner for the bulkhead though.



We used to torch the glue when fixing bike tubes to speed up dry time... Ah yes, "back when I was a lad"...

49
Pond Chat / Re: Mosquito Control
« on: June 30, 2007, 11:29:21 AM »
Mosquito fish are WAY cheaper...

50
Pond Chat / Re: Submersible Pump Flow///Cleaning the pump
« on: June 20, 2007, 05:54:51 PM »
How about a snail in the line somewhere? Back-flushing the water lines if you can is a really good way to dislodge junk that may get in the lines.

51
Pond Chat / Re: what water lily is this one?....
« on: June 20, 2007, 05:49:18 PM »
Could it be a changeable lily? Comes out one color and then turns? Or do they first come out as different colors?

Craig or Sean may have a much better answer than the most of us...

52
Pond Chat / Re: Skippy Media
« on: June 20, 2007, 10:05:56 AM »
A skippy can be modified to fit any situation. It can be a mechanical filter, biofilter, or nitrate filter... but it doesn't do very well when attempting to combine tasks.

I have not been using my skippy as a biofilter. My TT (I hope) handles that part of the duty. I only have brushes in the skippy as "polish" from the vortex and mech filter.

That is quite true. Depends on the location in the system and what type of media is in it. We just use containers and generally put media in them to try to accomplish the given tasks. In general, I think most people think biofilter when talking about skippies, for some that is their only filter.

From my understanding brushes make excellent biofilter media, so I would guess your skippy is doing bio. For polish I thought very fine mats or a sand/bead filter was best. But again I think many of us use what we have, in the best way we know, to get the best results we can...

53
Pond Chat / Re: Skippy Media
« on: June 18, 2007, 08:21:54 PM »
Here are a few sources:

http://www.shoplet.com/office/db/gFPAD1199.html

http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_2751.asp?desc=Uline+Poly+Strapping

http://www.bettymills.com/shop/product/view/Premier/PAD235.html

http://www.keystonehatcheries.com/showproduct.asp?id=929

http://www.enkoi.com/subcat53.html

Kent sells PVC shavings:
http://livingwatersolutions.com/lws/

I discovered hardwood floor installers have a large source of nylon strapping material—each bundle of wood has multiple straps.

The skippy is the biofilter. It comes after the skimmer and the mechanical filtration—the one that gets cleaned frequently is the mechanical filter. The biofilter is cleaned infrequently.
I ended up with electric fence wire around my pond to keep the raccoons at bay. That's the bummer about building a shallow pond or shallow plant shelves around the edges.

54
Aphids when they get a little crowded create what are called winged elates. This is in order to elevate the overpopulation in a given area, and spread it elsewhere. Their method of survival is to breed like mad. When you see just a few winged ones arrive the rest of the clan will be born very quickly. You really don't need to use soap to kill them, and you could hurt beneficials with it. 70–80% of aphids are killed when you hose them off, as their little beaks get broken...

55
Pond Construction & Filtration / Re: Connection of Liner to preform
« on: June 14, 2007, 04:22:27 PM »
Sikaflex and PL both make a polyurathane caulk. I've read it can cure under water, but I don't think it will stick to something wet. There are also underwater caulks you could check out Westmarine on line.

I would caulk the joint and use something hard like plexiglass or a strip of 5 gallon bucket material to screw through to sandwich your joint. Like the seal on a BD.

56
Pond Chat / Re: Help!!
« on: June 14, 2007, 04:14:57 PM »
30 years ago we had trout and crawdads in the crik up the road, course ya couldn't eat'em cause they was full-o-mercury... still are to my knowledge. Ya I know, great help I am.

We all have senior moments, then we become seniors and it's moment to moment...

57
Pond Chat / Re: Cool Way to Display Duckweed
« on: June 13, 2007, 07:32:21 PM »
You can do the same with black ABS pipe—cut short rings and toss them in the pond. They will contain floating stuff like azolla. You can pick what ever diameter you want...

58
Pond Construction & Filtration / Re: No liner pond?
« on: June 12, 2007, 09:55:05 PM »
I've read for a mud pond you'll need to line it with bentonite clay. If you can get truck loads cheap... If you have a marshy area or swamp that should work well too.

59
Pond Construction & Filtration / Re: "natural pond"
« on: June 12, 2007, 09:49:00 PM »
I have a little more time now... The birds in my pond (lesser goldfinch, house finch, chestnut backed chickadee, morning doves, scrub jays) tend to go for the falls at the very top. A single large flat rock with water running over it about 1/3–1/2" deep they can stand on. The doves also choose the main pond but want to stand out of the water to drink—so a rock surface close to the water but not in the water. Frogs and toads, I have pacific tree frogs and they tend to like shallow plants like azolla, monkey flower, water cress—near the shore plants they can melt into. The frogs will probably like to eat water kinds of bugs and I don't know what all will be taken out by mosquito dunks, such as damsel fly larva, water skimmers, diving beetles and the like. I would suggest you think about some kind of fish to control mosquitos. Mosquito fish work well but will probably also do in your frog eggs, as they bear young live and don't think twice about eating eggs of any kind. Rosy red minnows, or a few feeder goldfish may be a cheaper and less harmful means of control. At 12 cents each @ Petsmart they will be much cheaper too.

I suspect your "pond guy" is willing to sell you an Aquascapes pond, gravel bottom and all.

Feel free to list any brand or forum on this forum—they are about educating everyone here not just the sponsors choices.

Your pump choice being a submersible will cost you more in the long run. You mentioned not putting it on the bottom cause you don't want to suck up the gunk. When do you think that gunk is going to go away? Get bottom drain, and don't build pond without it. Never heard about a rotor flush. The frogs and the like should lay their eggs near shore in the algae or other plant life they can attach and hide the eggs in. You don't need any plants to hide the plumbing—a skimmer goes at the side of the pond, and the bottom drain is plumbed under the liner—all the plumbing is out side of the pond—even the pump. A Wave 1/8 will give you almost 4000 gph at 3.5' of head and at 215 watts, compare that with your other pump choices. If they can't give you a performance curve look for another pump.

If you do a good bottom drain and a vortex filter of some kind that should be rather low maintenance. The skimmer could also be plumbed into that vortex, especially if you were to do a micro-screen. That leaves minimal maintenance. Then a good sized stock tank biofilter with a good media choice and your maintenance should be minimal compared to most. Ask your "pond guy" about cleaning the Aquascapes pond, like the annual drain and powerwash... (wonder what that does to the wildlife?) and the rinsing of the not very light lava rock in their biofilter... (sorry, jumping to conclusions about your pond guy)

You might want to P.M. Sean about his water lily ponds and what the special needs are for them. I have fish and like them (GF, minnows, rosy reds.) I don't know about doing a pond with just plants that doesn't get anaerobic yuk without adequate filtration. Mosquito dunks aren't cheap, and BT effects more than just mosquitos.

There are great forums about building ponds mostly centered around koi. Take the good information from those to build a low maintenance pond. You may want fish later, maybe not. This particular forum is not the best place to learn about pond construction—just the nature of the forum. Koiphen, Koishack, are a couple of active construction places that get into the nitty gritty of construction—they are koi oriented so keep that in mind.

The better you build your pond, the less time you'll spend cleaning it...

60
Pond Construction & Filtration / Re: "natural pond"
« on: June 12, 2007, 10:37:28 AM »
I too dug my hole in the ground thinking liner, pump, and have pond... Then discovered as you have skimmers, biofilters, and more...

A bottom drain is a good idea in any pond. As you say leaves will be dropping into the pond and you will have many plants that have leaves die and much else will contribute to gunk accumulating at the bottom of the pond. A bottom drain is the least labor intensive way to remove all that stuff. If your comfortable using 55 gal plastic drums, plastic stock tanks, etc to build, as you say "a plastic box" then that is a very inexpensive way to build your pond. As mentioned there is a wealth of detailed information at koiphen on how to build all kinds of DIY pond equipment.

http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51710

Keep in mind Koiphen is about koi ponds. They can have tunnel vision about koi pond construction, but there are not good sources for watergarden construction to my knowledge. Keep in mind the closer you build to a koi type pond, the less maintenance you will have.

Essentials; Bottom drain plumbed with 3"-4" pipe, gravity feed to a mechanical filtration device of your choosing. An external pond pump, turning over your water approximately 1 time per hour. External pumps are more costly to buy, but will save you a lot of money on electrical costs, as well as last you much longer. W. Lim, or Artesian make good ones. You can use a no-niche skimmer, a pool skimmer, or make one, or buy one. They will need some kind of filtration. All the water gets mechanically filtered before it goes to your pump. The pump can then push the water to your bio filter, then down your falls.

Avoid putting rocks on the bottom of your pond. You won't need sand for frogs and they are capable of jumping a good distance. There is a caveat on depth. If you build it shallow, say 2' deep then it's good for plants. At that depth raccoons can be a real problem, and they will eat your frogs and trash your plants. Deeper keeps the raccoons at bay but then you have to work out a solution for the plants. You may want to build a few areas of shallows for marginal plants—and keep those areas level or slightly sloped to the edge which keeps the rocks from sliding down into the depths of your pond. I have discovered that by putting my edging stones halfway into the water that the areas between the rocks and even behind them I can plant marginals there and they have places to grow and cover the liner over time.

Read all you can. The more you learn before you build, the less headaches you'll have later...

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