Messages

31

Aquatic and Terrestrial Plant Exchange / Re: "Royal Hawaiian" Taros

« on: August 22, 2009, 09:10:18 AM »

Nice looking plant!  I'll have to watch for blooms.

32

Aquatic and Terrestrial Plant Exchange / Re: "Royal Hawaiian" Taros

« on: August 21, 2009, 05:11:52 PM »

I haven't noticed any blooms on mine...yet, anyway.

33

Aquatic and Terrestrial Plant Exchange / Re: "Royal Hawaiian" Taros

« on: August 21, 2009, 07:13:28 AM »

Yes, of course, Joyce!  Send me an email

34

Aquatic and Terrestrial Plant Exchange / Re: "Royal Hawaiian" Taros

« on: August 19, 2009, 02:02:11 PM »

Thanks so much, Tim!

Steve, I still have these available!  Send me an email and I'll send an invoice...your figures are correct.

35

Aquatic and Terrestrial Plant Exchange / Re: "Royal Hawaiian" Taros

« on: August 01, 2009, 09:49:45 AM »

It is a neat plant...you wouldn't think that bit of sheen would make much difference, but it does.  I'm seriously considering dropping the ol' standby's and only growing these new hybrids.

36

Aquatic and Terrestrial Plant Exchange / "Royal Hawaiian" Taros

« on: August 01, 2009, 08:46:41 AM »

October 10, 2009 - We finally received our first frost, so will not be shipping anymore taros.  Thank you to all those who ordered!

I feel a little guilty posting this, since I haven't been very active here lately!

As much as I hate to admit it, another month and we'll be thinking autumn here in the north.  I've got some nice looking "Royal Hawaiian" Taros that I would rather get rid of than mess with over wintering.  The "Royal Hawaiian" series is a group of new hybrids being developed in Hawaii.  They bring some really unusual colors and other characteristics to the standard taros.  These have proven to be strong, vigorous growers.  All supposed to be hardy to zone 7.

Some of the big specialty nurseries are getting big bucks for these.  I've been selling them for $8, but will offer them here for $6.50 each.  If you want 3 or more, price is $5 each.

They are growing in quart pots and the foliage stands between 14" to 24" tall.  Diamond Head is the largest and Pineapple Princess the smallest.

Shipping will be $8 for up to 3 plants and $0.50/plant for each additional plant.  Plants will be shipped bare root.

PM me here or email me at josh@inthecountrygardenandgifts.com with questions or orders.  I will send out PayPal invoices which can be payed through your PayPal account or by credit card (you do not need a PayPal account!).

I have these three varieties (descriptions copied from my website):




'Diamond Head' - This Royal Hawaiian elephant ear brings a refreshing new twist to black taros! The 15" long leaves are uniformly deep, black-purple with a glossy finish that adds an exciting glimmer to the plant. Leaf edges are lightly ruffled and petioles (leaf stems) are dark burgundy. Colocasia 'Diamond Head' forms a bold clump 4' to 5' tall.




'Hilo Bay' - An elephant ear hybrid in the Royal Hawaiian series with an unusually textured, olive-green leaf. The 20" long leaves are thick in substance and heavily puckered and wrinkled. The texture resembles the volcanic rock at Hilo Bay. Also interesting is the way the undulating leaf edges curl inward as the leaves perch atop chocolate colored stems. This taro forms a constrained, spreading clump to 4' tall.




'Pineapple Princess' - A unique color among the Royal Hawaiian series of elephant ears! 18" long leaves are chartreuse overlayed by a lavender-grey blush. The purple leaf veins contrast against the lighter colored background and the ruffled, purple edges create a nice frame. Leaf backs are grey-purple and the petioles (stems) are rich burgundy. Colocasia 'Pineapple Princess' is a vigorous growing taro that forms a compact, non-running clump 3' tall and 5' across. Blooms in late summer and fall with yellow hooded spikes that smell of fruit as they open.

37

Pond Chat / Re: Fertilizer question

« on: July 22, 2009, 08:02:12 AM »

I agree...especially if your pond is new.  There is no muck in there for the plants to grow into and feed from.

You might float your floaters in a bucket of Miracle-Gro for a few days.  That will green them up and give them a boost.

38

Pond Chat / Re: Anynody know of or have these plants

« on: April 21, 2009, 08:07:39 AM »

I think the blue one is Heteranthera reniformis...Mud Plantain.  The white looks like it could be another Heteranthera species.

39

Pond Chat / Re: Chocolate vine.. .silver lace vine.. vine help....

« on: April 14, 2009, 07:34:57 AM »

Silver Lace puts on a nice fall show.  It also grows very quickly.

Have you tried Sweet Autumn Clematis?  Another fast grower that would cover a large area.

Or...get some morning glory seeds and scatter along the fence.

40

Pond Chat / Re: Galvanized stock tank ponds get good algae on sides?

« on: March 29, 2009, 08:02:15 AM »

I have two large galvanized tanks and lilies, floaters, and goldfish do just fine.  They are older tanks, but has anyone heard any first hand stories of things not doing well in galvanized tanks?  Or could this be another popular myth?

41

Pond Chat / Re: Caltha palustris

« on: January 31, 2009, 08:04:35 AM »

Caltha palustris 'Flore Plena' is the name of the double Marsh Marigold.  I'm sure I've seen it offered for sale in the US, but can't remember where.

42

Pond Chat / Re: Do water lillies stop blooming with age?

« on: December 28, 2008, 07:48:00 AM »

Water lilies benefit from dividing and repotting regularly...every 2-3 years, depending on the pot size and growth rate of the lily.  They get too crowded to grow properly, then they produce smaller pads and few flowers.  I'm guessing this is your problem.

Have you divided and repotted recently?

Lilies are also heavy feeders.  Do you fertilize?  I fertilize 2x per month during the growing season.  Some people use a slow release fertilizer once in the spring.

43

Pond Chat / Re: Water Hyacinths

« on: November 29, 2008, 09:21:39 AM »

If you have a greenhouse that you heat anyway, it is a different story.  I have wintered hyacinths in my greenhouse.  Minimum temp is around 45-50*.  They dwindle down to puny little plants, but around March they start growing again.

Without a greenhouse, though, I personally don't think it is worth it.  Even at $6 each, how much electricity will you have to pay for to run lights and an aquarium heater all winter?

44

Pond Chat / Re: Water Hyacinths

« on: November 28, 2008, 07:42:29 AM »

I don't think keeping hyacinths over winter will get you a head start.  Hyacinths just sit there...or decline...if they are not warm enough.  Even if you put them in your pond early, chances are it will be too cool for them to grow.

Keeping hyacinths alive indoors is not an easy task.  Usually, lack of light is what does them in.  They also need nutrients.  A splash of Miracle Gro in the water every couple weeks does them good.

I really don't think it is worth all the trouble.

45

Pond Chat / Re: Lily ID from China?

« on: November 22, 2008, 08:45:42 AM »

You can see a bunch of buds in your photos.  A lot of times the flowers only open partially and almost always self pollinate.  They are small and not very impressive, so you didn't miss much!

Euryale are much more cold tolerant than Victorias.  Marla, I would try again.  I've grown them several times here in Iowa.  It could be your plant was too small to withstand the cool temps.  The bigger the plant, the more forgiving it is.  It may have been the year, too...it was not a good year to grow Victorias in Iowa.

46

Pond Chat / Re: Lily ID from China?

« on: November 21, 2008, 07:56:53 AM »

The lily is a Euryale ferox.  Not a Victoria, but a close relative.

http://www.victoria-adventure.org/victoria/euryale_gallery.html

47

Pond Chat / Re: Has anyone seen this kind of water hyacinths

« on: September 07, 2008, 07:50:19 AM »

Some of these same pictures were sent to the Victoria Adventure mailing list not long ago.  The conclusion the members came to was that they are flowers from glads/cannas (I forget which, but they look like hybrid glads to me) that were very carefully stuck into the sheath that the hyacinth flower emerges from.

Howell, I don't think you are trying to trick us...you're just telling what you were told.

48

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: Deck plants and other weirdos...

« on: August 13, 2008, 10:40:09 AM »

If you can keep the deer away until it gets going, it should be just fine, Joyce.  A big "grove" would be quite stunning!

49

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: Deck plants and other weirdos...

« on: August 13, 2008, 07:47:02 AM »

I love my 'Tiger Eye', but it is not as dwarf and well behaved as that link claims!  Mine is only about 4 years old and is already 6' tall and there are probably 6-8 suckers out there now, plus the 3 or 4 I've given away.  Very bright and showy...in the right location.

50

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: Hosta Summer Sale.

« on: August 08, 2008, 07:14:36 AM »

Josh, aren't all fragrant hostas related to Hosta plantaginea?

Yes, they are.

51

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: Hosta Summer Sale.

« on: August 07, 2008, 08:31:07 AM »

Mike, the trouble with growing hostas in your climate is the heat.  They don't tolerate heat well.  They also need a cold dormant period in the winter.  Without it, they get smaller and smaller until they die.  Your best bet would be with some of the fragrant types.  They are all derived from Hosta plantaginea, which is the most heat tolerant species.

52

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: I want shade garden like steve's.. ??'s adding dirt under Old Dogwood.....

« on: June 24, 2008, 07:52:21 AM »

10" is a lot to add at one time.  I wouldn't add more than a couple inches.  The tree roots will grow into the new soil, so it really isn't a long term solution.

53

Pond Chat / Re: Who has raised Victoria Longwood? Need advice...

« on: June 04, 2008, 07:31:06 AM »

Yes, definitely keep it away from the turtle.

Have you done any reading at http://www.victoria-adventure.org ?  Your baby isn't quite past the critical stage and will need some TLC...and good luck...to get going.  It is easy to over fertilize and kill them at this stage, so I wouldn't plant it in anything too rich, yet.

54

Pond Chat / Re: Dutch Iris (Iris Hollandica) can I put in watergarden?

« on: May 04, 2008, 07:50:31 AM »

I'm pretty sure they would rot if they were kept wet.

55

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: Little Hostas...

« on: April 29, 2008, 07:29:59 AM »

Yes, Cat and Mouse is one of them.  Here's a little clip from an article I wrote for my local pond club newsletter...

‘Cat and Mouse’ has round, chartreuse leaves edged with a blue margin.
‘Frosted Mouse Ears’ is blue-green with a wide white edge.
‘Holy Mouse Ears’ has white centered leaves edged in blue-green.
‘Royal Mouse Ears’ is randomly streaked and splashed with gold and blue.
‘Snow Mouse’ is a white edged sport that originated in Europe.
‘Green Mouse Ears’ has been around for a few years and is the least glamorous of the family.  It has rounded, green leaves.

Just be aware that most of those you'll find for sale this year are just 1st year tissue cultures...very small.

56

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: Little Hostas...

« on: April 28, 2008, 07:51:12 AM »

Be watching for several variegated sports of Blue Mouse Ears.  Cute, cute, cute!  They are going to be hot.

57

Terrestrial Gardening / Re: Hosta Companions...

« on: April 27, 2008, 09:09:02 AM »

Looks like spring has arrived, Joyce!

58

Pond Chat / Re: Green Algea

« on: April 15, 2008, 07:53:07 AM »

Hyacinths and lettuce just float.

Parrot's Feather does best if it is potted or at least anchored miguynmkoi said.

Water lilies need to be potted.  Some people have success potting in gravel, but I feel they do best in top soil or clay.

59

Pond Chat / Re: Green Algea

« on: April 14, 2008, 01:51:39 PM »

Hyacinths, lettuce, and parrot's feather will spread over the water fairly quickly and yes, it is likely that you will need to thin them out once they take off.  Water lilies will spread out, but they will stay contained in their pot...for a year or two anyway.

As far as seeing the fish, once they associate people with food they will congregate at the edge of the pond whenever you are nearby.

If they are dead-set against plants, you don't have many options.  Beefing up your filter system is about all you can do, except to rely on chemicals.  Or you can load up on submerged plants.  Enough of those will do the trick, but the fish can hide in them, too.

Any chance you can convince your SIL's to let you handle the pond for a month to see what a difference you can make??

60

Pond Chat / Re: Green Algea

« on: April 14, 2008, 09:04:55 AM »

1- Stop using the Algae Destroyer.  It is a chemical algaecide and has to be used continuously to keep the algae from growing.  It is a band aid to cover up the problem.  The phosphate remover is fine...phosphate is often a cause for excessive algae growth.

2- Make sure your expectations are realistic...this is a pond...there will be algae.  A pond without algae is unnatural and unhealthy.  Cloudy green water and gobs of floating algae are indicators that things are out of whack.  A short fuzzy or slimy layer on the rocks and liner is healthy.  That layer is alive with not only good algae, but beneficial bacteria and other good bugs.  When you drained and washed the rocks, you destroyed this good growth.  It will take time for it to redevelop and balance things out again.  6-8 weeks is not unusual and the cooler the temp, the longer it takes.  It very likely will get worse before it gets better.  Whatever you do, do not drain the pond or scrub/wash the rock and liner!

3- I don't see any plants in the pond.  Plants are a key component in a clear, healthy pond.  Algae needs 3 things to live - water, sun light, and nutrients.  Limit one or more and you will not have an algae problem.  You can't get rid of the water, so that leaves light and nutrients to deal with.  Plants can take care of both.  They will cover the surface of the water and block out the light and they will absorb excess nutrients from the water, starving out the algae.  Some plants are more helpful than others.  Water lilies are excellent for shade.  Water hyacinths and water lettuce serve double purpose...they are floating plants, so they shade the water plus they draw all of their nutrients directly from the water.  Submerged plants are also excellent for using excess nutrients.  Anacharis and Hornwort are two common types.

4- The bubblers are beneficial...they won't encourage algae.

If this was my pond, I would not add any more additives (bacteria additives are ok), I would add a bunch of plants, and then not touch the pond for a month.  It will probably get worse before it gets better, but it has to go through the cycle to balance itself out.