1
Pond Chat / Re: canopy over the pond
« on: April 24, 2012, 12:25:10 PM »
With the space you had to work with, 'ya done good! 
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
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2
Pond Chat / Re: dividing water lilies
« on: April 19, 2012, 09:18:27 AM »
That link in Julles' post contains a lot of good information. I also like the pictures showing pots that are more wide than they are deep. Much more in line with what waterlilies (and lotus for that matter,) really should be grown in.
I'm finally working on getting a similar guide together to post on my website. Some additional information I'll be including is as follows:
How do you know you really should re-pot waterlilies? If you use fertilizer tabs and it takes a hammer to get them down into the soil, that's a pretty good sign. If the rhizome of a hardy waterlily has grown out past the rim of the pot and now sticks out a foot into the water, that's another one that really needs attention.
There are three things to consider here. Do you want to reduce the size of the plant to fit the current size pot? Would you rather re-plant the waterlily in a larger pot to allow the plant to grow larger? And one thing not yet mentioned, do you want to end up with additional plants from this re-potting?
Most, if not all waterlilies, will perform much better when grown in larger pots than the ubiquitous one gallon "squat pot" that is probably the most common pot in use. I've always thought that the 2 1/2 gallon pot, shaped like the one pictured in the above link, should really be the "standard size" in place of the one gallon pot. Most waterlilies that are started off in that size pot should be able to grow for two seasons before needing to be re-potted. But, for many smaller ponds, that would be cutting back on the number of plants you would be able to grow in the pond.
As for what soil to plant waterlilies in, I stick with what one of Perry Slocum's grandsons told me. "If it will grow grass, it will grow waterlilies." That is true even of the native Florida sandy soil that I have a yard full of. You can even use pure builder's sand if you have to, thanks to the rather incredible fertilizers available today. You can experiment with all the various soil mixtures and additives you like, but when it comes down to it, whatever you have on hand will do just fine.
The same holds true for most of the "top dressings" you hear about. Some simple, such as a layer of pure, white sand, some more complicated involving multiple layers of different materials. After a couple of months in the pond, you won't see much of a difference in the looks of the planting. None of them really "keep nutrients" from leaching into the water, about the only real purpose of them is to please the eye, and as I said, that seldom last very long. A top dressing can help keeping fish from stirring up the soil, but the small rocks often used can easily be scattered about the pond by the fish and complicate adding fertilizers. If you need to keep fish from rooting around, consider using larger, flat rocks that you can pick up to put the tabs into the soil, then replace, at least that way you aren't pushing down a layer of gravel into the pot with every tab, giving the fish a place to dig.
Many times, I've found tropical waterlilies in need of re-potting that had more than one crown, or growth point where the pads seem to radiate from. When re-potting, these two (or more,) crowns can be pulled apart and give you two plants where you had only one. Each newly potted plant will be more productive when separated. (By "more productive," I mean they will put up more and generally larger blooms.) And anytime you re-pot a tropical waterlily, look through the soil in the old pot, and in the roots at the base of the plant for small corms, that can also be planted to grow new waterlilies. If you don't want those for growing new plants, you might have some friends who would want them. You can also use them to trade with others for new varieties for your pond.
That tuber that got cut away from the hardy waterlily can also be the source for several new plants if you want them. Sometimes I simply keep them in a bucket of water and wait for new plants to show up. Most of the time, the tuber will have some lumps or "eyes" on them, kind of like you'll occasionally see on a potato. Once the eye has produced a couple of small pads and some roots, they can be removed and planted.
Any plant that is "root-bound," needs to be re-potted. You will notice that both pad and bloom production has slowed down, and the new pads and blooms will be smaller. Will likely see roots coming up out of the soil, and into the water column. You will have a hard time pushing a finger into the pot to insert a fertilizer tab. This plant can be re-potted into a larger pot any time of the year, with little, if any, "re-potting shock." Just keep the root mass mostly intact, freeing up the roots a bit on bottom of the mass, and a little on the sides as well.
If it is to go back into the same pot, or one the same size, you will have to reduce the root mass. You should also remove a similar amount of pads, as well. Not much different from re-potting terrestrial plants. This waterlily will go through a period of re-potting shock, but growth should start again in about two weeks or so.
Just thought I throw in some more thoughts on the subject.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
I'm finally working on getting a similar guide together to post on my website. Some additional information I'll be including is as follows:
How do you know you really should re-pot waterlilies? If you use fertilizer tabs and it takes a hammer to get them down into the soil, that's a pretty good sign. If the rhizome of a hardy waterlily has grown out past the rim of the pot and now sticks out a foot into the water, that's another one that really needs attention.
There are three things to consider here. Do you want to reduce the size of the plant to fit the current size pot? Would you rather re-plant the waterlily in a larger pot to allow the plant to grow larger? And one thing not yet mentioned, do you want to end up with additional plants from this re-potting?
Most, if not all waterlilies, will perform much better when grown in larger pots than the ubiquitous one gallon "squat pot" that is probably the most common pot in use. I've always thought that the 2 1/2 gallon pot, shaped like the one pictured in the above link, should really be the "standard size" in place of the one gallon pot. Most waterlilies that are started off in that size pot should be able to grow for two seasons before needing to be re-potted. But, for many smaller ponds, that would be cutting back on the number of plants you would be able to grow in the pond.
As for what soil to plant waterlilies in, I stick with what one of Perry Slocum's grandsons told me. "If it will grow grass, it will grow waterlilies." That is true even of the native Florida sandy soil that I have a yard full of. You can even use pure builder's sand if you have to, thanks to the rather incredible fertilizers available today. You can experiment with all the various soil mixtures and additives you like, but when it comes down to it, whatever you have on hand will do just fine.
The same holds true for most of the "top dressings" you hear about. Some simple, such as a layer of pure, white sand, some more complicated involving multiple layers of different materials. After a couple of months in the pond, you won't see much of a difference in the looks of the planting. None of them really "keep nutrients" from leaching into the water, about the only real purpose of them is to please the eye, and as I said, that seldom last very long. A top dressing can help keeping fish from stirring up the soil, but the small rocks often used can easily be scattered about the pond by the fish and complicate adding fertilizers. If you need to keep fish from rooting around, consider using larger, flat rocks that you can pick up to put the tabs into the soil, then replace, at least that way you aren't pushing down a layer of gravel into the pot with every tab, giving the fish a place to dig.
Many times, I've found tropical waterlilies in need of re-potting that had more than one crown, or growth point where the pads seem to radiate from. When re-potting, these two (or more,) crowns can be pulled apart and give you two plants where you had only one. Each newly potted plant will be more productive when separated. (By "more productive," I mean they will put up more and generally larger blooms.) And anytime you re-pot a tropical waterlily, look through the soil in the old pot, and in the roots at the base of the plant for small corms, that can also be planted to grow new waterlilies. If you don't want those for growing new plants, you might have some friends who would want them. You can also use them to trade with others for new varieties for your pond.
That tuber that got cut away from the hardy waterlily can also be the source for several new plants if you want them. Sometimes I simply keep them in a bucket of water and wait for new plants to show up. Most of the time, the tuber will have some lumps or "eyes" on them, kind of like you'll occasionally see on a potato. Once the eye has produced a couple of small pads and some roots, they can be removed and planted.
Any plant that is "root-bound," needs to be re-potted. You will notice that both pad and bloom production has slowed down, and the new pads and blooms will be smaller. Will likely see roots coming up out of the soil, and into the water column. You will have a hard time pushing a finger into the pot to insert a fertilizer tab. This plant can be re-potted into a larger pot any time of the year, with little, if any, "re-potting shock." Just keep the root mass mostly intact, freeing up the roots a bit on bottom of the mass, and a little on the sides as well.
If it is to go back into the same pot, or one the same size, you will have to reduce the root mass. You should also remove a similar amount of pads, as well. Not much different from re-potting terrestrial plants. This waterlily will go through a period of re-potting shock, but growth should start again in about two weeks or so.
Just thought I throw in some more thoughts on the subject.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
3
Pond Chat / Re: How do you monitor water temperature?
« on: April 14, 2012, 01:06:08 PM »
Since my ponds are for waterlilies, I have no reason to constantly monitor water temps. I let the plants tell me when the water is warm enough to start the growing season or cold enough to bring it to a close.
Years ago, I was breeding & raising Koi. Water temperature was much more important to me. But of all the critical water parameters, water temperature is the slowest to show a significant change.
From a design standpoint, a dedicated Koi pond is a complex system. Every thing added to that system is also an additional potential failure point. Especially so when the addition is an automated one with its own internal complexities. This is why I've always been an advocate for design simplicity.
That said, I'd not argue against having a water temperature monitoring system, as it would be one who's failure would be the least likely to result in a catastrophic system collapse. But I would consider it to be a "nice-it," rather than a necessity.
Just some rambling thoughts brought on by your post.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Years ago, I was breeding & raising Koi. Water temperature was much more important to me. But of all the critical water parameters, water temperature is the slowest to show a significant change.
From a design standpoint, a dedicated Koi pond is a complex system. Every thing added to that system is also an additional potential failure point. Especially so when the addition is an automated one with its own internal complexities. This is why I've always been an advocate for design simplicity.
That said, I'd not argue against having a water temperature monitoring system, as it would be one who's failure would be the least likely to result in a catastrophic system collapse. But I would consider it to be a "nice-it," rather than a necessity.
Just some rambling thoughts brought on by your post.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
4
Pond Chat / Re: canopy over the pond
« on: April 13, 2012, 09:50:59 AM »
Looks great!
Kind of hard to tell, but it looks like the ends are open. If herons do get brave and walk in, I suppose you could put a curtain of the same netting up on the ends. Should be able to rig it so it could completely open just like a window curtain. Probably would only have to cover the bottom half of the opening, at that.
Didn't mean just the net system looked great, so does the rest of the scenery!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Kind of hard to tell, but it looks like the ends are open. If herons do get brave and walk in, I suppose you could put a curtain of the same netting up on the ends. Should be able to rig it so it could completely open just like a window curtain. Probably would only have to cover the bottom half of the opening, at that.
Didn't mean just the net system looked great, so does the rest of the scenery!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
5
Pond Chat / Re: Jongkolnee Lives!
« on: April 12, 2012, 06:20:50 AM »
Just a little update:
I now have seven little tubers growing in the 2 1/2 gallon pot, out near the rim, with the parent plant that is also putting up new pads. And it looks like there will be a few more. Once these have gotten a little bigger, they will be moved to their own, individual pots.
I did locate the second Jongkolnee, the tuber had been removed from it's pot by a raccoon, the pot left on it's side, spilling soil everywhere. The tuber had no new growth of the original plant, but again seven tubers had sprouted, those have been started in small cups, and I see quite a few more what looks like tubers still within the main tuber.
So, I should have a bumper crop of Jongkolnee waterlilies. Now, I have to give some thought as to what I'm going to DO with them. . .
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
I now have seven little tubers growing in the 2 1/2 gallon pot, out near the rim, with the parent plant that is also putting up new pads. And it looks like there will be a few more. Once these have gotten a little bigger, they will be moved to their own, individual pots.
I did locate the second Jongkolnee, the tuber had been removed from it's pot by a raccoon, the pot left on it's side, spilling soil everywhere. The tuber had no new growth of the original plant, but again seven tubers had sprouted, those have been started in small cups, and I see quite a few more what looks like tubers still within the main tuber.
So, I should have a bumper crop of Jongkolnee waterlilies. Now, I have to give some thought as to what I'm going to DO with them. . .
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
6
Pond Chat / Re: Planting a Black Taro in a planter
« on: April 06, 2012, 06:15:17 AM »
I'm liking that idea, Kat!
What my old friend John did was to bury those small, maybe 3 ft. dia. hard plastic Kiddie pools up to the rim in the ground. I think they are only about 8 inches deep. In those, he grew his Iris, Water Chestnut, Dwarf Umbrella Palm, Horsetail Rush, that sort of thing. Usually, in a single season, the original planting would spread and completely fill the little pools. It took a large knife to remove a "plug" of them. It was those "plugs" that he then sold to finance is waterlily hybridizing projects. (Along with the waterlilies, of course.)
I used one of those tiny little pools myself about 10 or more years ago. I went one step further than John, as I used a can of Black Krylon spray paint on the upper 4 inches of the pool, inside & out, especially the top rim. This was partly for looks, mostly for UV protection. That darned thing still holds water, today. Unfortunately, it's location is now a bit of a problem. Every so often, it gets stepped in! I really need to move it.
They still sell those things at WalMart, usually under $10 each.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
What my old friend John did was to bury those small, maybe 3 ft. dia. hard plastic Kiddie pools up to the rim in the ground. I think they are only about 8 inches deep. In those, he grew his Iris, Water Chestnut, Dwarf Umbrella Palm, Horsetail Rush, that sort of thing. Usually, in a single season, the original planting would spread and completely fill the little pools. It took a large knife to remove a "plug" of them. It was those "plugs" that he then sold to finance is waterlily hybridizing projects. (Along with the waterlilies, of course.)
I used one of those tiny little pools myself about 10 or more years ago. I went one step further than John, as I used a can of Black Krylon spray paint on the upper 4 inches of the pool, inside & out, especially the top rim. This was partly for looks, mostly for UV protection. That darned thing still holds water, today. Unfortunately, it's location is now a bit of a problem. Every so often, it gets stepped in! I really need to move it.
They still sell those things at WalMart, usually under $10 each.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
7
Pond Chat / Re: Planting a Black Taro in a planter
« on: April 05, 2012, 11:19:46 PM »
I posted a pic or two last year of Violet Stem Taro in a container next to a pond. Thought about overflow holes, but never put them in. The soil level was within six inches of the top, I think. So "excess" water simply overflowed. Added some Lizzard's Tail and a couple of Iris's to the pot, they all seemed to do well.
Years ago, I buried a five gal. bucket in the ground, with about three inches above ground. Planted a Taro in it. All I had to do was add water if it started to dry out. Only problem was that it sent out runner that started new plants in the ground outside the pot. Turns out, that was not such a bad thing, as those stayed small due to a lack of water. Any time I needed another Taro, they were easy to dig up and pot, ready for a pond.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Years ago, I buried a five gal. bucket in the ground, with about three inches above ground. Planted a Taro in it. All I had to do was add water if it started to dry out. Only problem was that it sent out runner that started new plants in the ground outside the pot. Turns out, that was not such a bad thing, as those stayed small due to a lack of water. Any time I needed another Taro, they were easy to dig up and pot, ready for a pond.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
8
Pond Chat / Re: Jongkolnee Lives!
« on: April 05, 2012, 12:07:48 PM »
Glad to hear that yours is doing well, too! Even though I'm pressed a bit (!) for space, I want to grow the little ones coming up, thinking that growing several generations will help them become more tolerant to temps colder than their origin.
Besides, I just LIKE them!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Besides, I just LIKE them!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
9
Pond Chat / Jongkolnee Lives!
« on: April 04, 2012, 03:01:23 PM »
I've been watching and waiting, and now I can say for certain, my Jongkolnee made it through the winter! 
OK, it was a Florida winter. . . But still, I had my doubts. Florida does have four seasons! They are:
It's Almost Summer.
It's Summer.
It's not Summer but it's Pretty Darned Hot.
February.
Any way, the one I potted up in a 2 1/2 gal. pot now has 5 new, small pads up to the surface. Further inspection revealed three new little plants sending their little pads up a few inches. Two of them are between the crown and the side of the pot, the third one is growing out part way up the tuber. One unusual thing about this plant is that while it can produce new tubers at the base of the plant, it also produces subcutaneous occult tubers (small tubers under the skin,) in the main tuber. These can be squeezed out and planted.
I hope I can find the other Jongkolnee I planted. I think it is probably one of the pots the raccoons overturned and may now be just a tuber on the bottom of the pond. Once it starts putting up new pads, I'll find it.
I guess this too is part of the fun. Every once in a while, little pads show up and a long-lost plant is found!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
OK, it was a Florida winter. . . But still, I had my doubts. Florida does have four seasons! They are:
It's Almost Summer.
It's Summer.
It's not Summer but it's Pretty Darned Hot.
February.
Any way, the one I potted up in a 2 1/2 gal. pot now has 5 new, small pads up to the surface. Further inspection revealed three new little plants sending their little pads up a few inches. Two of them are between the crown and the side of the pot, the third one is growing out part way up the tuber. One unusual thing about this plant is that while it can produce new tubers at the base of the plant, it also produces subcutaneous occult tubers (small tubers under the skin,) in the main tuber. These can be squeezed out and planted.
I hope I can find the other Jongkolnee I planted. I think it is probably one of the pots the raccoons overturned and may now be just a tuber on the bottom of the pond. Once it starts putting up new pads, I'll find it.
I guess this too is part of the fun. Every once in a while, little pads show up and a long-lost plant is found!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
10
Pond Chat / Re: Question for the commercial members, mostly.
« on: April 04, 2012, 08:51:04 AM »
I thought I should add to this, that I also told my friend that I would only be able to supply a very few plants this year, and that I should be able to refer him to others who might be interested and able to take part in his "experiment" on offering waterlilies from other than local sources to his customers. As of right now, he tells me that the only outside source being used by water garden shops in S. Africa is Israel.
Food for thought!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Food for thought!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
11
Pond Chat / Re: String algae
« on: April 04, 2012, 08:44:39 AM »
For me, things are going fairly well. Then again, my point of view is a bit skewed, or so I've been told. It looked like most everything went completely off the rails for a while, but I've learned to scrape it off my boot and drive on. Every time a door seems to close on me, another one opens up. I just go thru and see where it leads.
Much of what I know about water gardening was picked up from my mentor, John Davis of Bushnell, FL. Back when I met him, he'd been raising and hybridizing waterlilies for about 50 years. Most of his production ponds were burial vaults that he got a deal on because they were "flawed" in some way. Only real problem with them was their weight. Where ever you first put them is where they tend to stay!
In those, he grew out water lilies in one gallon pots. Nothing else in those ponds except for some elodea, a single air stone, and usually just one goldfish of some sort. The fish was for mosquito control. Not all the tanks had them, as John sort of saw them as high maintenance. He was really focused on the plants. Ponds without fish always had a BT doughnut in them. Koi to John, was just a "swimming rat." The less time I spent arguing with him on that, the more time I spent learning from him.
The thing is, John made no real effort to keep the ponds from going green. His minimalistic approach kept the clear for him.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Much of what I know about water gardening was picked up from my mentor, John Davis of Bushnell, FL. Back when I met him, he'd been raising and hybridizing waterlilies for about 50 years. Most of his production ponds were burial vaults that he got a deal on because they were "flawed" in some way. Only real problem with them was their weight. Where ever you first put them is where they tend to stay!
In those, he grew out water lilies in one gallon pots. Nothing else in those ponds except for some elodea, a single air stone, and usually just one goldfish of some sort. The fish was for mosquito control. Not all the tanks had them, as John sort of saw them as high maintenance. He was really focused on the plants. Ponds without fish always had a BT doughnut in them. Koi to John, was just a "swimming rat." The less time I spent arguing with him on that, the more time I spent learning from him.
The thing is, John made no real effort to keep the ponds from going green. His minimalistic approach kept the clear for him.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
12
Pond Chat / Re: Still Here in Spring Hill, FL!
« on: April 04, 2012, 08:29:50 AM »
Glad you asked that question! I just noticed that I never did add the website to my profile. Since it still isn't a commercial site, I guess I can post it here. http://www.ptponds.com
I think I've some good pictures of my various waterlilies, a few of the ponds, too. If that sort of pond appeals to anyone, there's a Download page that will drop a pdf on it's construction, complete with pics.
Now that stuff is growing again, I'll be able to add some pages (with pics,) on my version of potting the plants and other topics. Nothing new to most Forum members, but possibly useful to those new to the hobby.
For a minute there, I thought you were asking about the software website! Then I reminded myself that this is the American Ponders Forum.
That's when I realized I'd left my website off of my profile. . . 
It's OK, I'm awake now!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
I think I've some good pictures of my various waterlilies, a few of the ponds, too. If that sort of pond appeals to anyone, there's a Download page that will drop a pdf on it's construction, complete with pics.
Now that stuff is growing again, I'll be able to add some pages (with pics,) on my version of potting the plants and other topics. Nothing new to most Forum members, but possibly useful to those new to the hobby.
For a minute there, I thought you were asking about the software website! Then I reminded myself that this is the American Ponders Forum.
That's when I realized I'd left my website off of my profile. . . It's OK, I'm awake now!Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
13
Pond Chat / Re: String algae
« on: April 03, 2012, 10:04:41 AM »
Hydrogen Peroxide is just water with an extra oxygen molecule. So, it "shouldn't" harm fish. That extra molecule of oxygen is loosely bound to the compound of water, so just shaking a bottle of it will cause the extra oxygen to break free and bubble up to the surface.
When you pour it into the pond, that is what happens and it can be used as a way in a low-oxygen emergency to quickly raise the oxygen levels in the pond. When doing this, you should NEVER pour the stuff in directly on top of a fish. Remember that the primary use of Hydrogen Peroxide, sold in drug stores, is as a topical disinfectant. While that extra oxygen molecule is still bound to the water, it is a powerful oxidizer. A straight shot of it very definitely damage fish gills.
Pouring it directly on to concentrations of string algae should be pretty safe for the fish. It will not remain “hydrogen peroxide” in the water for very long at all. You might consider adding aeration to the pond to ensure that the oxygen levels are kept up to the temperature dependent oxygen saturation point. String algae prefers water with lower oxygen levels.
String algae lives on nutrients dissolved in the water. To me, it’s presence is a symptom of water that needs a little attention.
As for the various clays, I’d not think of them as a “chemical,” just as I don’t generally regard salt as a “chemical.” Of course, they are just that, chemicals, but when people us the term, they often mean it in a negative context. What the clay does is, it acts primarily as a “chemical sponge.” Just as zeolite can remove ammonia from the water column, the clays also “take up” quite a few chemicals that are not desirable in the pond. The right clays also add some beneficial minerals that can be missing from your supply water.
Just some thoughts,
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
When you pour it into the pond, that is what happens and it can be used as a way in a low-oxygen emergency to quickly raise the oxygen levels in the pond. When doing this, you should NEVER pour the stuff in directly on top of a fish. Remember that the primary use of Hydrogen Peroxide, sold in drug stores, is as a topical disinfectant. While that extra oxygen molecule is still bound to the water, it is a powerful oxidizer. A straight shot of it very definitely damage fish gills.
Pouring it directly on to concentrations of string algae should be pretty safe for the fish. It will not remain “hydrogen peroxide” in the water for very long at all. You might consider adding aeration to the pond to ensure that the oxygen levels are kept up to the temperature dependent oxygen saturation point. String algae prefers water with lower oxygen levels.
String algae lives on nutrients dissolved in the water. To me, it’s presence is a symptom of water that needs a little attention.
As for the various clays, I’d not think of them as a “chemical,” just as I don’t generally regard salt as a “chemical.” Of course, they are just that, chemicals, but when people us the term, they often mean it in a negative context. What the clay does is, it acts primarily as a “chemical sponge.” Just as zeolite can remove ammonia from the water column, the clays also “take up” quite a few chemicals that are not desirable in the pond. The right clays also add some beneficial minerals that can be missing from your supply water.
Just some thoughts,
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
14
Pond Chat / Question for the commercial members, mostly.
« on: April 02, 2012, 09:20:31 PM »
Just heard from an old friend in S. Africa and now I'd like to know if anyone has any experience in exporting waterlilies? Most likely, I'd be selling thru his website and shipping direct to his customers in S. Africa, but I'm waiting to hear the details of what he actually has in mind.
I did do a little looking around on some .gov websites and was NOT encouraged by what I found. My first impression that it would be almost impossible to do this and still show any profit at all. Then again, that is what I thought when I first thought about selling waterlilies on-line here in the US, and of course, was WRONG about that.
So, anyone been involved in exporting waterlilies? Any help would be appreciated, either here on the Forum, by PM, or email, whatever you'd rather.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
I did do a little looking around on some .gov websites and was NOT encouraged by what I found. My first impression that it would be almost impossible to do this and still show any profit at all. Then again, that is what I thought when I first thought about selling waterlilies on-line here in the US, and of course, was WRONG about that.
So, anyone been involved in exporting waterlilies? Any help would be appreciated, either here on the Forum, by PM, or email, whatever you'd rather.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
15
Pond Chat / Still Here in Spring Hill, FL!
« on: April 02, 2012, 09:12:58 PM »
I was starting to wonder if I'd ever get to a point where I could get back to posting here! 
Interesting "winter" down here in Spring Hill, FL. Seems I did a good job of getting the local raccoon population fed during the winter. Really good! For a while, I thought they'd completely wiped out my waterlily population, but it turns out most of the damage was turning pots over and spilling the contents all over the bottom. Now that Spring has "sprung," and pretty much turned right into Summer, things are growing where I thought there would be nothing at all.
So, I guess I'll be busy potting up a bunch of "mystery plants" and waiting for blooms so I can ID them and tag them. this means I'll probably remain a hobby grower this year, and work on building up stock and "raccoon-proofing" the ponds. That's OK by me, it was plan A to begin with anyway.
I know it seems that working on the pond and getting the "biz" up and running should be my main focus, but let me provide a little perspective. I'd originally wanted to get a small "hobby-business" going for a little "extra" money when I retire in about 5 years. That plan kind of came apart when my wife had to stop working for medical reasons and our income was cut essentially in half. Hey, it happens.
I never wanted a waterlily business to become serious business, but to remain a hobby-business. You know, something fun, something I could enjoy without it turning into "real work." So, I'm going to keep it as just that. A hobby that will at least pay for itself, and if I'm lucky, provide some extra income.
But, I still need to generate more income or cut things back to a point that I'd rather not have to deal with. So the last couple of months I've been learning software authoring. My teacher is my father. He writes software for the FL Citrus industry for farm maintenance and payroll software that is rather specialized to that industry. For a long time, he's worked knowing that there wasn't anyone to carry on after he's gone, so he was dealing with customers that were becoming a little leery about their software's future. Provided I can become proficient at programing and maintaining the software, I will be taking over the business for him.
Dad says his customers have expressed relief that there will be someone to keep things going in his stead. So, he tells them not to worry, a new, younger guy will carry on. . . But the new, younger guy just turned 60!
I have to wonder just how old his customers are?!?
Right now, learning to write code takes priority over ponds. But, I'll still get stuff done and the waterlily biz will still happen. In the mean time, I'll get to potting up plants, taking pictures and posting articles on my website, as promised. I should be able to do some plant exchanges via the Forum this year and look forward to that.
I want to get back to reading and writing post on the Forum, but maybe in a slightly limited fashion. All in all, I still LOVE it and will keep growing the wet stuff!
Got a question for the commercial members, but I'll put that up in a separate post.
Glad to see so many people still here and that the "posting season" looks to have started!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Interesting "winter" down here in Spring Hill, FL. Seems I did a good job of getting the local raccoon population fed during the winter. Really good! For a while, I thought they'd completely wiped out my waterlily population, but it turns out most of the damage was turning pots over and spilling the contents all over the bottom. Now that Spring has "sprung," and pretty much turned right into Summer, things are growing where I thought there would be nothing at all.
So, I guess I'll be busy potting up a bunch of "mystery plants" and waiting for blooms so I can ID them and tag them. this means I'll probably remain a hobby grower this year, and work on building up stock and "raccoon-proofing" the ponds. That's OK by me, it was plan A to begin with anyway.
I know it seems that working on the pond and getting the "biz" up and running should be my main focus, but let me provide a little perspective. I'd originally wanted to get a small "hobby-business" going for a little "extra" money when I retire in about 5 years. That plan kind of came apart when my wife had to stop working for medical reasons and our income was cut essentially in half. Hey, it happens.
I never wanted a waterlily business to become serious business, but to remain a hobby-business. You know, something fun, something I could enjoy without it turning into "real work." So, I'm going to keep it as just that. A hobby that will at least pay for itself, and if I'm lucky, provide some extra income.
But, I still need to generate more income or cut things back to a point that I'd rather not have to deal with. So the last couple of months I've been learning software authoring. My teacher is my father. He writes software for the FL Citrus industry for farm maintenance and payroll software that is rather specialized to that industry. For a long time, he's worked knowing that there wasn't anyone to carry on after he's gone, so he was dealing with customers that were becoming a little leery about their software's future. Provided I can become proficient at programing and maintaining the software, I will be taking over the business for him.
Dad says his customers have expressed relief that there will be someone to keep things going in his stead. So, he tells them not to worry, a new, younger guy will carry on. . . But the new, younger guy just turned 60!
I have to wonder just how old his customers are?!? Right now, learning to write code takes priority over ponds. But, I'll still get stuff done and the waterlily biz will still happen. In the mean time, I'll get to potting up plants, taking pictures and posting articles on my website, as promised. I should be able to do some plant exchanges via the Forum this year and look forward to that.
I want to get back to reading and writing post on the Forum, but maybe in a slightly limited fashion. All in all, I still LOVE it and will keep growing the wet stuff!
Got a question for the commercial members, but I'll put that up in a separate post.
Glad to see so many people still here and that the "posting season" looks to have started!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
16
Pond Chat / Re: Question about how lilies grow
« on: April 02, 2012, 08:27:21 PM »
Tropical waterlilies tend to put their primary "feeder" roots very shallow. The larger, thicker roots that they will put down deeper are what I'd call "anchor roots. But when we limit their growth area by putting them in pots, you will eventually find roots filling the entire pots.
Many of the fertilizers used will never completely dissolve, as the actual nutrients are coating the surface of a carrier material. Others may have a coating on the nutrients that will dissolve at different rates, depending upon time or water temp. A good deal of what may look like unused fertilizer in a pot has actually done it's job and what remains is inert.
A manufacture's rep. explained to me that the fertilizer you place in the pot will tend to rise towards the surface. You put it down deep, to avoid too much getting to the feeder roots at once, "burning" the plant.
Tropicals will often produce those corms you mentioned as a method of reproduction. As far as I know, there's only one waterlily that actually reproduces by sending out "runners," and that would be N. Mexicana, a hardy waterlily.
Just some of my opinions, and I have been wrong before!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Many of the fertilizers used will never completely dissolve, as the actual nutrients are coating the surface of a carrier material. Others may have a coating on the nutrients that will dissolve at different rates, depending upon time or water temp. A good deal of what may look like unused fertilizer in a pot has actually done it's job and what remains is inert.
A manufacture's rep. explained to me that the fertilizer you place in the pot will tend to rise towards the surface. You put it down deep, to avoid too much getting to the feeder roots at once, "burning" the plant.
Tropicals will often produce those corms you mentioned as a method of reproduction. As far as I know, there's only one waterlily that actually reproduces by sending out "runners," and that would be N. Mexicana, a hardy waterlily.
Just some of my opinions, and I have been wrong before!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
17
Pond Chat / Re: First Pond
« on: April 02, 2012, 08:12:09 PM »
I'd have to say that the answer as to the best size pond for a Koi pond, water garden, or a combination of the two, (Koi Garden?) would be as large as you can comfortably afford.
I say that because the larger the pond, the more forgiving it will be. Larger ponds are more stable than smaller ones. Smaller ones will react to changes in water temps and water chemistry much faster that larger ones.
Experience has taught me that when it comes to keeping fish alive and thriving, a pond with a couple of thousand gallons is much easier to keep running right than a 10 gallon aquarium. . .
The figures Lawanna gave are the same one's I go by, when you really want to "maximize" the ability to let Koi reach their full potential. But I know that most people will over-stock, no matter what.
Best of Luck!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
I say that because the larger the pond, the more forgiving it will be. Larger ponds are more stable than smaller ones. Smaller ones will react to changes in water temps and water chemistry much faster that larger ones.
Experience has taught me that when it comes to keeping fish alive and thriving, a pond with a couple of thousand gallons is much easier to keep running right than a 10 gallon aquarium. . .
The figures Lawanna gave are the same one's I go by, when you really want to "maximize" the ability to let Koi reach their full potential. But I know that most people will over-stock, no matter what.
Best of Luck!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
18
Pond Chat / Re: three at once
« on: April 02, 2012, 07:58:27 PM »
Gary,
Love it when the blooms arrange themselves so nicely! Looking good, sir.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Love it when the blooms arrange themselves so nicely! Looking good, sir.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
19
Pond Chat / Re: 14 tropical blooms today
« on: April 02, 2012, 07:55:14 PM »
Love the way you "green-housed" your pond! And the results look great, too.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
20
Pond Chat / Re: Three Dead Fish - What Do You Think?
« on: April 02, 2012, 07:53:12 PM »
All I can offer is a few possibilities for you to consider.
From my own experience, I think that if low oxygen during the change was the problem, the larger Koi would have been effected first, before the smaller ones. But when a toxin is in the water, such as chlorine or chloramine, the smaller ones are usually more sensitive and affected sooner than the larger ones.
I have been told by people who run chlorination stations that the amount they add is varied with the local temps and rainfall levels. Houses closer to the treatment points will have higher levels of the treatment added show up in their taps. This more true when chlorine is the additive used, than with chloramine, as the latter is more chemically stable.
Two other thing to consider, but may not be all that likely due to the amount of water changed is the fact that water from the tap can have VERY low oxygen levels, and the pH can be quite different from the pond water.
An afterthought, water temp differences can also severely stress the fish, but once again, with a small water change, it would probably not be enough of a change to make a difference.
Wish I could offer something more concrete.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
From my own experience, I think that if low oxygen during the change was the problem, the larger Koi would have been effected first, before the smaller ones. But when a toxin is in the water, such as chlorine or chloramine, the smaller ones are usually more sensitive and affected sooner than the larger ones.
I have been told by people who run chlorination stations that the amount they add is varied with the local temps and rainfall levels. Houses closer to the treatment points will have higher levels of the treatment added show up in their taps. This more true when chlorine is the additive used, than with chloramine, as the latter is more chemically stable.
Two other thing to consider, but may not be all that likely due to the amount of water changed is the fact that water from the tap can have VERY low oxygen levels, and the pH can be quite different from the pond water.
An afterthought, water temp differences can also severely stress the fish, but once again, with a small water change, it would probably not be enough of a change to make a difference.
Wish I could offer something more concrete.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
21
Pond Chat / Re: How to quarantine plants....and KILL flatworms, snails and copepods...Help!!!
« on: September 09, 2011, 08:40:51 AM »
Other than single cell suspended algae, I'm not sure it's even possible to overdose KNMO4 on plants. However, that green water algea tends to come back with a vengence, as the residue from the treatment is good food for them. (This happens when treating a pond, not when treating plants outside the pond.)
22
Pond Chat / Re: Springflo filter material. I installed it in the cool of the morning!
« on: September 09, 2011, 08:35:43 AM »
Lawanna,
Yes, it sounds to me like you have a well designed and equally well built filter system. A good solids removal section will make the biofilter section work much more efficiently. Many do combine both functions into one, but they simply will never do both jobs nearly as well as when you separate them. Mechanical filter and biofilter, two different functions, each in it's own section.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Yes, it sounds to me like you have a well designed and equally well built filter system. A good solids removal section will make the biofilter section work much more efficiently. Many do combine both functions into one, but they simply will never do both jobs nearly as well as when you separate them. Mechanical filter and biofilter, two different functions, each in it's own section.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
23
Pond Chat / Re: Springflo filter material. I installed it in the cool of the morning!
« on: September 08, 2011, 03:50:42 PM »
With any "loose" media, make certain the water flows through it. If contained too tightly in a bag, it is possible for water to see it as a solid object and flow around it, being that water does follow the path of least resistance.
It's a common design flaw in many home-made filter systems. Once the problem is seen, it can usually be easily rectified.
Not suggesting that it is happening here, just a cautionary note!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
It's a common design flaw in many home-made filter systems. Once the problem is seen, it can usually be easily rectified.
Not suggesting that it is happening here, just a cautionary note!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
24
Chit Chat / Re: Mathematics humor
« on: September 02, 2011, 06:10:54 AM »And that's how I met my DH. He was my math tutor in college when I was taking and flunking calculus for the first time.
OK. . . My first take on this was to ask, just how many times did you eventually flunk calc?
But, that would be wrong!!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
25
Chit Chat / Re: An audition tomorrow with a woman I blasted!
« on: September 02, 2011, 06:06:53 AM »
I'm just going to pretend I didn't read Mikey's post! 
Jerry, just go in there and "act" like someone else!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Jerry, just go in there and "act" like someone else!
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
26
Pond Chat / Re: Springflo filter material. I installed it in the cool of the morning!
« on: September 02, 2011, 05:54:11 AM »
Kittyzee,
I'm sorry if you thought my remarks about clear water being not the same as good water was directed at you. They were not, but I can see how it could look like it. It was just a comment on pond keeping in general, and fish keepers in particular.
I will make sure I express myself much more clearly in the future.
Rapid clearing always surprises me too. In fact, after an overnight clearing, I've seen Koi that suddenly became very skittish and hid from view. I guess the sudden change surprised them too.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
I'm sorry if you thought my remarks about clear water being not the same as good water was directed at you. They were not, but I can see how it could look like it. It was just a comment on pond keeping in general, and fish keepers in particular.
I will make sure I express myself much more clearly in the future.
Rapid clearing always surprises me too. In fact, after an overnight clearing, I've seen Koi that suddenly became very skittish and hid from view. I guess the sudden change surprised them too.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
27
Pond Chat / Re: Springflo filter material. I installed it in the cool of the morning!
« on: September 01, 2011, 03:44:13 PM »
Lawanna,
Exactly! Always a good idea to use your old media to help cycle the new. (Seeding.) I just hope people don't confuse clear water with *good* water. Wish everyone had at least a basic water test kit, if fish are an important part of the pond life. They don't just heip fix problems, the give you the chance to prevent them.
I used to spend a reduculous amount of time trying to help people fix problems with their fish and ponds. All well and good, but trying to get them to get active about preventing problems was all too often a waisted effort. Then again, I once listed "Banging my head against a wall" as a hobby.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Exactly! Always a good idea to use your old media to help cycle the new. (Seeding.) I just hope people don't confuse clear water with *good* water. Wish everyone had at least a basic water test kit, if fish are an important part of the pond life. They don't just heip fix problems, the give you the chance to prevent them.
I used to spend a reduculous amount of time trying to help people fix problems with their fish and ponds. All well and good, but trying to get them to get active about preventing problems was all too often a waisted effort. Then again, I once listed "Banging my head against a wall" as a hobby.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
28
Pond Chat / Re: Is Perry's Baby Red lazy?
« on: August 29, 2011, 01:30:56 AM »
My Perry's Baby Red was potted just a few months back. This one went into a one gallon squat pot and placed on a concrete block to bring it within a foot of the surface.
The tuber has grown completely across the pot now, and has at least 3 different growth points along it's lenght. All three of these points are producing pads and blooms. So, I'd have to agree that lazy, it isn't.
It did slow it's growth a bit, I think I under-dosed the "once-season" fertilizer, so I supplimented that with the AgSafe tabs. That got things going again. Those tabs really work well for me.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
The tuber has grown completely across the pot now, and has at least 3 different growth points along it's lenght. All three of these points are producing pads and blooms. So, I'd have to agree that lazy, it isn't.
It did slow it's growth a bit, I think I under-dosed the "once-season" fertilizer, so I supplimented that with the AgSafe tabs. That got things going again. Those tabs really work well for me.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
29
Pond Chat / Re: Springflo filter material. I installed it in the cool of the morning!
« on: August 29, 2011, 01:21:45 AM »
Now I'm confused. You changed your biofilter media and expected to see a some sort of change over night?
Something tells me we are not talking about water chemistry here. Were you looking to remove suspended solids from the water?
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Something tells me we are not talking about water chemistry here. Were you looking to remove suspended solids from the water?
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
30
Pond Chat / Re: Springflo filter material
« on: August 26, 2011, 10:07:01 AM »
I do know the names, but for me, "bio-bugs" works best! And you are right, they are NO fan of cholorine or chloramines.
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
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