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Messages - Dkoinut

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1
Pond Chat / Re: Pond Heaters
« on: March 30, 2009, 07:49:07 PM »
Hi Casey. What zone are you in? Guess it's not that important, but I'm in zone 5 here and even with several days of temps in the -30 degrees range my 5 ft deep in ground pond stayed in the upper 40's just using a greenhouse cover. I onlt had a thin sheet of ice twice all winter and it was gone by afternoon both times. The cover actually keeps the pond as warm as if moved to 1 warmer growing zone. In my case that might be from zone 5 to zone 6. That might be enough to solve your problem w/out busting your utility budget.

2
Thanks txpondnut. I believe you got it.  The ponders I recieved it from didn't know the name either. And I didn't know it was a perennial, but it easily reseads its self. I can see where the Cypress name comes from whith the cypress like leaves. I just checked and don't have seeds now, but i will next fall and will offer them then.

3
Here's another pic of it growing.

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Aquatic and Terrestrial Plant Exchange / Help me identify this plant
« on: March 28, 2009, 07:46:29 PM »
Several years ago I got seed for and grew this plant. It's color is  Red-Orange and grows about 3 foot tall in my clay flower beds. The leaves are very fine and similar in shape to Gay feather. Can anyone to identify it? I may have some seed to share, but if not now, i will in later this summer.

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Pond Chat / Re: pond maintenance question
« on: March 28, 2009, 05:53:21 PM »
Sean- I think you're riding a "dead horse". I admitted being upset and changed the post. And  "master pond builder" hasn't been back to discus things further. I didn't see where you jumped him for calling me crazy. I also agree that these forums are supposed to be fun and educational, and that was my point and the only reason I post on this or any forum. I have nothing against rock bottoms on ponds if that's what people want and they do look nice. I am against incorrect, bad, or fictional information. There was no argument on the Koiphen link either. Just educational information on installation of a bottom drain with excellent photos. Epdm pond liner under water or above will not degrade due to UV from the sun, and algae does not grow under gravel on a pond bottom. Pond liner had a 25 year warranty last I heard. Pond bottom can be flat, a taper is not required for a bottom drain to work and a 4 inch drain will keep a 5 to 6 foot radius area of the bottom clean and if you use a air manifold you can increase that to a 10 foot radius. The sealer or glue goes under the liner along the edge of the bottom drain on the flange. It is less than 2 inches wide and cleaning the small section of liner used or new shouldn't be a problem. Then the sealing ring goes over the liner and it has holes that line up with the holes in the flange I use a finish nail to locate 2 opposing holes where the screws secure it to the bottom drain. The photos on the link show everything clearly for anyone needing the information. I apologize for making this so long, and hope it's helpful.

6
Pond Chat / Re: dkoinut... Pic of 50 g ST?
« on: March 28, 2009, 11:32:02 AM »
finpond. I'd suggest 4 inch for your bottom drains, and for a pond that large you would probably need 3 of them as well as 3 s/chambers if you used barrels.

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Pond Chat / Re: dkoinut... Pic of 50 g ST?
« on: March 28, 2009, 11:08:47 AM »
 Thank you Tim. Ester. Water comes into the barrel thru the bottom from the pond. This barrel would be in the ground and only the top 3 inches would be above the highest pond water level. It can be installed where ever desired and can even be covered for safety. My settling chamber is over 870 gallons and also has a bottom drain that goes to a similar barrel so I can recycle the waste to my garden foor free fertilizer and reuse of waste water.

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Photo Album / Re: Waterlily Pics Feb 09 for those dealing with ice
« on: March 28, 2009, 09:45:06 AM »
Wow. Tropicals too. The only thing I have blooming now is a Marsh Marigold, and that's under the pond greenhouse cover.

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Photo Album / Re: Spring 09 Waterlily Pix
« on: March 28, 2009, 09:39:35 AM »
Very pretty Tim. Really makes me wish we had moved back there. I hate winter. Not much difference for spring here either. We're supposed to get 6+ inches of snow today.  >:(-

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Pond Chat / Re: dkoinut... Pic of 50 g ST?
« on: March 27, 2009, 08:09:19 PM »
  Having a bit of trouble making this larg enough to see here. Sorry

11
Pond Chat / Re: dkoinut... Pic of 50 g ST?
« on: March 27, 2009, 07:14:34 PM »
Hi Dave. I draw one and try to post it. What size pipe will you be using from your bottom drain and how large is your pond?

12
Pond Chat / Re: Cleaned my skimmer basket and priming pot...
« on: March 27, 2009, 07:03:12 PM »
You might check the valve to see that it is functioning properly ( not sticking open) and doesn't allow water to drain back into the pond. Also if you get air in the strainer basket check to see that the drain on the basket and bottom front of the pump is properly tightened. Also may need to relube the "O"ring in lid of the strainer basket. good luck and have fun.

13
Pond Chat / Re: pond maintenance question
« on: March 27, 2009, 06:55:22 PM »
Hi MP Builder.   Not to hurt your feelings but I think you are an ameture. I'll agree that if you have an existing pond you may have problems installing a bottom drain, but only if you've cut off too much liner or didn't leave a proper amount of liner for your planned coping. There should be no algae growing under your gravel, and if you know how to properly clean it the liner will be fine and will seal properly, if clean and dry. Try a scotchbrite pad for cleaning the liner. If you'd like to learn about bottom drains try contacting the manufacturers and dealers. Over the years I've installed3 and 4 inch bootton drains in past and current ponds and have also done diy bottom drains and other plumbing thru my liners and have never had a leak. Ther is some anxiety associated with putting a hole in a new, existing and perfectly good liner, but once it's been done according to the instructions successfully, it's not a problem. Take a look at this link and it should help you. http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55540

14
Hi tink. I recieved your Lotus today, and all in great shape too.  Wow, you really sent much more than I expected. They should make a full pot this summer. I decided to go ahead and get them planted today instead of holding them in the basement. We're supposed to get 6 inches of snow tomorrow, but then warm up next week.Thanks again. I feel bad I didn't pay more. What a deal.

15
Pond Chat / Re: when can I start feeding our fish
« on: March 25, 2009, 06:34:03 PM »
Don't be anxious to feed koi much until the water is consistantly above 55* F and then only once or twice per week. It will take 6 weeks for your bio filters to cycle and be able to convert the fish wastes from Ammonia to nitrates. Also once you start feeding, it's time to be water quality testing specifically for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

16
Pond Chat / Re: Why a bottom drain?
« on: March 25, 2009, 06:22:19 PM »
Personally, I'd never have a pond with out a bottom drain and a settling chamber. Makes maintenance so very much easier. It also, if used with a settling chamber will reduce water usage. I never need to completely empty my pond to clean it. My aereated bottom drain constantly sweeps the pond bottom clean. Bottom drains are very easy to install and will not leak if installed properly.

17
Pond Chat / Re: What is the temperature of your pond water?
« on: March 25, 2009, 06:06:30 PM »
Mine was 56 degrees F tuesday, but that's the bottom temperature and the pond is still covered  to help keep it warmer

18
Pond Chat / Re: pond maintenance question
« on: March 25, 2009, 05:56:45 PM »
Hi Andi. If you'd like another option, consider a bottom drain that goes from the pond to a 55 gallon waste barrel or settling chamber. These plus the pipe, fittings, and pipe cement will cost aproximately $100. I'd also get the rock off the pond bottom to keep wastes and leaves from poisoning the pond. I'd also keep the shop vac away from the pond. Water and electricity are a deadly combination and an accident waiting to happen.

19
Pond Chat / Re: Pump run time
« on: March 25, 2009, 05:41:28 PM »
If we're voting, I say 24/7. You need to heep it going so your biofilters will cycle and the good bacteria don't die. also it will help add oxygen to the pond and filters to help improve water quality.

20
Pond Chat / Re: Cleaned my skimmer basket and priming pot...
« on: March 25, 2009, 05:30:47 PM »
Hi Jerry. I see Larry has already posted the solution I would have given to fis your problem. Add a check valve below the water line and you'll be set.

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Pond Chat / Re: Pics of the Progress!
« on: March 21, 2009, 07:27:16 PM »
For what it's worth, that's going to be a real dirty job to clean when it's needed. Plus all the bad bacteria, and odors of hydrogen sulfide it will produce, if you plan on returning that bog filtered water to the pond. I'd recommend a better and much easer to maintain Anoxic filter pond. You get to have all the plants, minus all that gravel.

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Pond Chat / Re: Last Call for the White lotus ... free tubers....
« on: March 20, 2009, 08:26:27 PM »
Thanks for the paypal help. finally "got er done" I hope i can keep the lotus  start in a cool basement till it's warm enough to go outside. Should i just keep it in water and dark or should I go ahead and pot it up when it arriives? Thanks.

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Pond Chat / Re: Last Call for the White lotus ... free tubers....
« on: March 19, 2009, 07:12:27 PM »
Hi tink i have been talking to you by PM and didn't get how to do a paypal to you.  I wanted to try the white lotus. Oh, btw, I live on the west side edge of the Mississippi. too bad Davenport isn't in Illinois huh.

24
Pond Chat / Re: Water lily question
« on: March 19, 2009, 06:29:23 PM »
What would you say to a planting method that A/ uses no fertilizer.    B/ Uses cat litter with a cup of laterite mixed into it, and covered with a thin layer of 1 inch gravel.     C/ Will produce copious blooms from various Hardy water lilies, water Iris, Marsh Marigold, Pickeral rush, and others.    D/is planted in the screen sided planting baskets that are aproximately 11" X 11" and 7 inches deep and will never smell of hydrogen sulfide as all solid walled pots will. E/ These baskets will also act and a type of filter that will utilize ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates as fertilizer for the plants.     F/  And it will improve water quality parameters with minimal maintenance.        Sound too good to be true? It is not and indeed will do all that I say.   

25
Pond Construction & Filtration / Re: Efficient pumps - opinions
« on: March 05, 2009, 07:38:08 PM »
Personnally, I prefer external pumps. I believe that they have the best warrantee (many with 3 years.) They are easier to maintain and are much safer. No electricity in the pond to harm you or your wet pets. And as for dependability, I don't think you can beat them. I've run a Sequence  for 8+ years Seasons) 24/7 with no problems. I also have a Evolution 5500 gph like Steve sells and uses and it is more efficient than the Sequence and pumps more GPH in my configuration. I also like the Supreme Pondmaster pumps too they can be either submerged or external and have cheap aand easily replaced parts. Mine are the 1800 and 2400 gph mag drives.

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Pond Chat / Re: Dead Fish
« on: March 01, 2009, 07:21:23 PM »
Sorry you're loosing your wet pets. Sometimes It's caused by a frog or other critter that died in the pond. But to prevent more losses, you really should get the dead ones out of the pond as soon as possible. Do not wait. You can melt the ice with pans of hot water or with a hose and tap water. Once you have a hole started you can add a deicer to melt the ice enough to remove the dead.

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Thanks tink, and please add me to your list if you have any lotus starts available. I' ve bee growing momobotan and a tropical pink (looks the same) and useually only get a couple blooms. I plan to try larger pots this year.

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Hi tinkster. I'm probably too late, but if not I'd love a start too. Gladly the shipping and handling too. That looks to be a very large lotus. I didn't notice if you said how big a planter is needed and how deep to keep water over the soil line?

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