Hi Debbie,
Sure, tubers are very easy to locate and store, when you know what to expect
A flowering plant may seem promising at the end of Summer, however they may have expended their growth doing blooms and not forming tubers. Trying to lift and store those is likely to be disappointing, too much organic mush, too much plant shock, strong likelihood the tuber may split. Better to try lifting the whole pot and storing it in a bucket of water without disturbing the roots and top foliage.
Some trop lilies just do not make tubers reliably, they are very, very poor at reproduction. Personally I would avoid trying those in the first place, alas adequate cultivation information is nine times out of ten, not provided from a source. Finding out the hard way is disappointing
If at the end of Summer, about late August, you stop feeding a tropical waterlily, move it to a shadier position, the plant is more likely to switch from a blooming phase, to tubering.
Take out your equipment, too whit one finger, slip it into the mud besides the lily, straight in, probe the soft mud for what feels like lumps. you will notice the roots of the lily go straight down to the bottom of the pot and radiate around the pot sides, probing the mud between the plant and the pot side is not so bad, there is not much in the way of roots to damage.
A Tina might set say, ten tubers less than an inch in size, pea sized. Colorata may set umpteen tubers of all sizes up to an inch. Islamorada I don't know, I usually find that vip's are plentiful and the tubers survive outdoors most years. Same with panama pacific... On the night bloomers, tubers may be anywhere up to six inches in size, huge conglomerates... or single one inch golfball size
Once a tuber is gently winkled out, minimising root damage, soak in water, rinse off all sediments. A harsh bleach overnight, rinse again. Allow tuber to surface dry briefly, to minimise the chance of fungus spores germinating on the surface just prior to storing the plant
The harsh bleach solution should disinfect the exterior of the tuber of any spores of fungus. Indoors, in the absence of ultra violet light to suppress them, fungus spores can romp. One or two drops to a small cup, a tablespoon or two to a bucket of water... to help rinse and disinfect sediments. Bleach is cheap, readily available and effective. After a couple of days the bleach degrades to an insignificant amount of slat water.
Dust with preferred fungicide, say sulphur or whatever else is offered at your local plant place for dusting stored bulbs, tubers, corms. (Read the instructions before you use fungicides) Healthy plants from disease free ponds are very reliable to store, no point giving some lousy mildew spores a chance to spoil things...
Plonk in bag of barely damp peat, close bag plonk on shelf. Place where mice won't find it at room temp. Peak once in a while to make sure there is some moisture content in bag (tubers die if too cold, or too dry, I never did that so I don't know if it is true)
By the time Spring comes, the plants own clock will be ticking, a healthy disease free plant will be showing sprouts.
Consider starting them off in a glass of water while temps outside are borderline, better to plant out with ZERO risk of a cold snap, which can set back a growing plant to a dormant (or dead) phase
Regards, andy
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