That glue chart should serve you well. . .
Yep, tightbond is good stuff. It has just the right open time, has a good initial grab, and it is a good bond. It is not as slippy while clamping as some others. Also it dries much harder than many of the other PVAs and won't "cold creap" as much.
That's a nice table, and the PU glue was a good choice for outdoor use. As for the Gorilla glue, my main complaint is that it is more expensive than the other PUs with no advantage. That foaming you encountered, is worse with Gorilla than the Elmer's PU product. PU will stain your skin brown (and my skin seems to be more susceptible to this) so the foaming is annoying. . . if you clean your hands with alcohol while the glue is still wet, it won't stain, but who has time to do that?
I'm not familiar with the kreg joiner you talk about, is it a pocket screw system?
I'll give you an example of how strong a well fit joint can be. Below I am preparing a soundboard for a small string instrument. The top is two pieces about 1/10 of an inch thick glued edge to edge. The joints are prepared with a SHARP plane. The pieces are laid on top of each other and the plane is "shot" across the edge, so that when you open them up like a book, the edges will match perfectly (assuming you get the edge perfectly straight with the plane). I'm using tightbond original here and the only clamping force needed is masking tape stretched across both sides. The tape has enough elasticity that when both sides are pulling against each other, no other clamping is needed. I can even set it upright to cure without worrying about the joint. the dark areas along the joint in the second picture is where I wiped off the squese out with a damp rag. In the end the glue joint is invisible and stronger than the wood itself.
