Author Topic: Jonna's Tropical Ruin  (Read 1822 times)

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Offline Jonna

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Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« on: March 13, 2007, 10:46:15 PM »
I said in another thread that we recently bought a house in Mérida, Yucatan.  It's the capitol city, an old colonial city that was once the home of fabulously wealthy henequen barons.  Henequen is a plant -Agave fourcroydes- that they used to make rope from, like all the rigging for sailing ships.  These guys were wealthy beyond belief and then the market dropped out from under them when new types of rope were created.  Mérida was their capitol and they had huge town houses there mostly built in the late 1800's.  It's very tropical, it is very spanish colonial and they call it the White City because of the stone buildings.  It's 20 miles from the Gulf coast at the top of the Yucatan peninsula.  It's about a 4 - 5 hour drive to the Caribbean coast and our condo.

There's a bit of a real estate boom starting there, especially in the old center of town with the leading edge of the baby boomer generation looking for warm, cheaper places to retire.  That's me!  There are a lot of very old stone houses that need an enormous amount of renovation but that are for sale pretty cheap.  It's really hot in Mérida, it's hot all year but then it gets really, really hot in the late spring before the rainy season starts.  Once the rains start, it rains almost every night and cools it off in the evenings.  In the winter or dry season, it is pretty consistently in the 80° to 90° range in the daytime, cooler at night.

It's an incredibly beautiful city, just drop dead architecturally gorgeous in the centro or old part.  It also is a bustling more modern city on the outskirts with gated suburbs and modern stores and malls.  In the centro, the streets are cobblestone.  There are wide, grand boulevards with flowering trees in the middle.  Huge mansions that take up a complete city block.   Regular houses in the centro present a flat face to the street but hide flower filled patios and gardens surrounded by high walls.

We fell in love with one of these old houses, a ruin really, and bought it.  Now we are going to start the enormous process of bringing it into the 21st century without destroying the style and grace of the 19th century when it was built.  It's going to be a fun project, frustrating at times too.  I need to spend more time thinking about how I want the house to be but instead I seem to be spending most of my spare time dreaming about the ponds I want to build.  There isn't room for huge ponds but I can fit in a chain of smaller ones with lots of tropical plants and fish.  I'm so excited to realize I can have regular aquarium fish living outside in the ponds. 

So, if you're interested in this ruin we bought, here's the blog page where I announced it.  I'd already put up a short page with pictures so my son in LA and friends in California could see what I was getting into.  I was kind of afraid they would freak out at what a ruin it was so the first few pictures are of other houses that have already been renovated there.  The link is also at the bottom of the blog page.

It's a long project and I don't know when we will get to the point where I can really start building a pond.  I'll keep you up on it though when it happens and I'll be bugging everyone for information as I plan it in my head. 

Offline Krista

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2007, 10:57:33 PM »
Amazing!!!!!!! both the reno one and yours! What great potential it has! can't wait to see it all as it goes on.
Mom of twins, knitting nut, and want to get back into water gardening.

Offline Joyce

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2007, 05:49:41 PM »
WOW! That is awesome...I can almost see it finished!
And that tile, you ARE going to keep it, aren't you?

Wish I could help, want me to do your landscape/gardens? 8-)~

Bill and I want to retire somewhere tropical too. 8)

...Joyce
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Offline Esther

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2007, 08:24:18 PM »
What a job you have ahead of you, but what fun. I absolutely love the floor tiles and the history of the place. The high ceilings help to keep the house cool don't they?

I earmarked your site and will keep an eye on what you are up to.

Offline happyoutsidegirl

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2007, 08:41:46 PM »
Jonna, that is so cool. I have always dreamed of getting an old place to redo. I'll bet your just dying to get it done. I love reading your writtings. You give so much detail and history I get all in grosed. Love it. thank you for shareing.
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Offline tammie

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2007, 10:01:26 PM »
I so want that tile floor!  I was looking at the prices of real estate in the area you're in - prices there sure are better then they are here!  Please keep updating I really want to follow your progress! 
Tammie


Offline Jonna

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2007, 12:50:15 AM »
I too love those tiles!  Yes, we're saving them.  In the rooms that don't have them we will use new ones in the center like a rug with polished concrete around them.  They still make them by hand with the original molds. I visited one of the "factories" once, not very modern but they had these molds hanging on the walls that went back over a hundred years.  They pack colored concrete into each section of the mold separately, put a lot of pressure on it and then dry it.

The high ceilings make a world of difference in the heat.  It was pretty hot the first day we went into the house but inside was cool, that was from the high ceilings and the thick rock walls.  We will probably only put AC in the bedrooms. Electricity is more expensive in Mexico than in the US and I'd like to get by without using it throughout the house.  If we get the ventilation right at ceiling height and a good cross flow of breeze I think we'll be very comfortable all year with just fans.  We will have fans in all rooms including the porches.

Shade is important too. I want the pool to come in under the big porch so that part of the water is shaded and stays cooler.  Of course, I also have this fantasy of having a hammock over the pool in the shade so I can just fall out of it into the water 8)

This whole peninsula is solid limestone, there's not a lot of soil on top of it.  Bedrock can be as little as a foot below the surface.  So, I'm doing a lot of thinking about what that means for ponds and gardens.  The water is very hard and we do have a well for the pool, ponds and garden, my guess is that the PH is quite high.  I'll probably put in a water softener for the house along with a pressure system for the city water.  Pool, ponds and cistern have to be dug out with a pick axe, they only bring in a jackhammer if they run into a big rock.  Labor is the cheapest part of any construction project so if you can do it manually then it works out costing less.  Thus, I hope they don't hit any big rocks.  I hope to have planting areas dug out too so I can add good soil at least a foot or two down.  I want a hidden spot in the back where I can make compost, I figure it will "cook" pretty fast here.

One of the selling points to living here for most middle class Americans is that help is inexpensive so you can easily have a maid come in several times a week and a gardener as well for very little.  Even daily without breaking the bank. There are a few downsides to that and you have to pay close attention to local labor laws so that you don't get caught violating them without realizing it.  But, all in all, having someone do the hard stuff in the yard and clean the house is a joy.  Merida has world class medical facilities and that's a consideration for most retirees. It's also a lot less expensive than in the US and there are insurance policies available.  Some US policies will cover you here as well.  Property taxes are very cheap, they top out at a couple hundred dollars a year, most are a lot less.  Mortgages are rare so your costs after you buy and renovate the house are very low for housing.  As I said, electricity is higher.  Imported foods are higher but the fruits and vegetables are not only fresher and better tasting but cheaper. If you learn to find what you like in local brands then your food costs will be a lot less.  If you have to have Ragu spaghetti sauce imported from the US, it will cost you. In some things you can get European brands cheaper than US brands so your choices expand. Currently gas is a little cheaper than in most of the US, it's government controlled and it goes up a set amount every month but still has lagged behind the US so far.  Cable internet and TV is available and satellite TV is available for US and Canadian channels. 

Here's a link to the real estate agency we used, it's fun to look at the houses. So far, I'm really happy with them and we got a lot of good feedback about them from other ex-pats.  Real Estate isn't regulated down here like it is in the US so you have to really be careful and check references.  You can see though that a house that has not been renovated is very inexpensive compared to costs in most of the US.  You can figure about the same amount to renovate as you paid for it unless you add square footage (+) or it already has updated electric and plumbing (-).

I think I overestimated the heat in my post above.  In the winter, it is often in the 70's and low 80's.  It's quite pleasant most of the time from December through March and then it starts warming up more.  It's almost always good to get out of the sun and rest during the middle of the day, it's almost necessary during the late spring and summer.  Humidity is high most of the time, in the winter it drops as there are nortes that bring dryer, cooler air down from the north.  Orchids and bromeliads grow on the trees all over in the wild, hothouse versions grow great on the trees too if you put them there.  I think the heat and humidity in the summer is equivalent to a summer in Houston.

**PS - Joyce, I would LOVE to have you do the gardens! 

Offline Esther

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2007, 08:33:10 AM »
Oh my goodness, 70s and 80s for winter. I kept my house at 64 two winters ago. This year I spoiled myself and kept the thermostat at 68, a literal heatwave.

Well keep us posted with your experiences. I think everyone else here is fascinated like I am with your life experiences there in Mexico. Hearing you tell about your life is the only way I'll ever experience something like it. I'm lucky to get out of my city, let alone leave the state or country.

Oh Joyce, wouldn't you just love it there? In the heat and humidity you could really go wild with interesting plants and flowers.

Offline happyoutsidegirl

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2007, 09:29:53 AM »
Once again you have kept me on the edge of my seat and totally ingulfed in your story. It's almost like being there. Go for it Joyce!
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Offline tammie

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2007, 10:04:59 AM »
Sounds like the temps are about the same as here?  We don't often get below 68*, very rare in the high 50*s.  And then it's only in the wee hours of the morning.  I'd bet the electricity and food prices are about the same as it is here.  We pay .18 per kilowatt for electricity. A gallon of milk is over $4.50.  But the house prices are unreal there!  The "average" home here is $650k. 
Please keep posting! 
Tammie


Offline froggerLee

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2007, 07:15:19 PM »
Wow, wow, wow!
As usual, I thoroughly enjoy learning about your land. I love to hear about different places, especially tropcial places!

You know, it would be cool if you could find out the history of the house, who lived there, etc.

Good luck with that, at least you won't be trying to renovate it yourself!
Lee


Offline Jonna

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2007, 09:37:20 PM »
You know, Tammie, I'm kind of embarrassed but I don't know what we pay for milk off the top of my head.  I am going to take note though.  We buy boxed milk.  It's not something I've seen in the US, I think the Dairy Assoc. probably doesn't want it.  Anyway, it doesn't have to be refrigerated until it is opened and some brands taste just the same as fresh milk to me.  Some brands add milk solids and stuff and don't taste the same.  I like the convenience though of always having milk available, I buy it by the case.  I'm pretty sure that fresh fruit and veggies are cheaper here than in Hawaii.  I remember prices in Hawaii and they were astronomical for simple things like a head of lettuce.  Everything is very fresh as it is never a long distance from source to market.  Chicken is cheaper and I like it better. They feed the chickens here marigolds so the flesh is yellower but it has more taste as well.  Good, aged beef is harder to find and more expensive.  Seafood is much cheaper.   Pork is excellent, there are no low fat pigs down here. I love the bacon, it is like bacon I remember as a child with lots of fat and taste.

Electricity is on a complicated tier system. The lowest tier is pretty cheap but no one with a US lifestyle could stay within it easily.  For sure, no AC and not a lot of lights or electronics.  When you jump into another tier, the price per kilowatt is retroactive and goes for all of the kilowatts you use.  Not only that, it takes several months of lower use to get back into a lower tier.  There are numerous tiers and as they go up they go up a lot.  So, if you use the AC one month and jump up into a high tier it will be many months at that rate but using less electricity to get back down.   We don't have an accurate reading for this condo.  We did get individual meters last year but they are wired wrong or something so our condo gets billed for the one downstairs and that one has almost no bill.  Because of that, we still just total all of them and divide by 7.  That isn't really fair to those that either don't rent their condo out much (like us) or to the one guy downstairs who didn't have AC until he realized he was paying for it anyway.  Eventually it will get straightened out, it's just one of the things that you have to get used to down here. Things happen when they happen and pushing almost never helps.

You may have heard that the Mexican constitution prohibits ownership of land by foreigners within a certain distance of the border or the coastline, I think it is 100 kilometers from the coast and 60 kilometers from a border.  To get around that without changing the constitution and so that they could encourage foreign investment, there is a method where you set up a trust with a Mexican bank and the land is held in that trust.  This arrangement is quite stable and very legal and has never been disallowed, no one has lost property due to that.  It's called a Fideicomiso and setting it up costs and there is an annual fee to the bank as well.  I just got a call today from my realtor in Merida that the fideicomiso is ready and they need the money for it to proceed. It's going to cost $1250 US to set up.  I don't have the annual fee amount yet but usually it is in the $500 US range per year.  So, things are moving along in my purchase of the house there. I wish they were moving a little slower actually as I wanted to get back to the US before having to pay the balance on the house. It would be a lot easier for me to get the money from there than from here.  There are some real benefits to owning land through a fideicomiso rather than through a deed or escritura.  You can specify inheritance to several degrees with a fideicomiso and you need a Mexican will to do that with a deed.  Also, the bank has an interest in your title and that can't hurt in a country without title insurance.  Where I'm buying has always been private land, but in some areas of Mexico the title was originally held in common by indigenous groups and those are pretty scary.  People have lost everything, house and land, by buying in an area that was part of a communal indigenous land grant, they are called Ejidos.  I wouldn't touch Ejido land with a found nickel.  It works out fine for some people but the risks are higher than my tolerance. 

Offline marla

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2007, 05:46:59 AM »
Good luck.  It has beautiful potential, and I love the tiles.  So open, and sunny looking.  Hope you'll have guest space, I'm sure people will want to visit.
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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2007, 08:18:23 AM »
It is all very beautiful!
I see you guys look very young, but tell me, what are the medical facilities like in the area?
Jerry
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Offline Jonna

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2007, 01:04:51 PM »
Medical, dental and hospital care is excellent in Merida.  It's one of the things on our list of must-haves when we were deciding on a place to settle.  World famous, world trained, excellent doctors in all specialties.  There are other places in Mexico that also have 1st class medical care, they were on our short list of places to move.  Mexico is getting more and more "medical tourism" or whatever they call those that have to go out of the US for uninsured medical care.  You can get top of the line medical care in Merida. 

Also dental. I'm just finishing up a lot of dental work.  It's a bridge with abutments (? hidden metal reinforcement and attachments) that required 3 crowns + 6 teeth.  I also got a laser whitening as I figured I'd do that before I got the new teeth's color picked.  Total cost $2000 US (not including the laser whitening) including many visits and very picky fitting and lab work from my dentist - who is an instructor at the dental schools in Mexico City and Monterrey as well as being an author on dental transplants and has several advanced degrees, some from the US.  My dentist is here on the coast but I'm sure there are equally excellent dentists in Merida, in fact my dentist mentioned a colleague there but jokingly reminded me that "my dentist" is here on the coast.  I like my dentist, he plays old Beatles tunes while working and we have lively music discussions.  He speaks excellent english but we communicate in both languages, I try to stick to spanish but when I get lost I go to english.  He's patient with my spanish but I've noticed that when we are discussing the work he is doing and what decisions I need to make that he switches to english, he knows his english is better than my spanish and he wants to be sure I understand.  He has a modern office with high tech stuff. When I was getting my teeth cleaned they had a little thingy that they put in my mouth behind my teeth so they (and I) could see the plaque, it was a video camera the size of a toothbrush and the screen was right in front of me.  Proved to me that I wasn't doing as good a job as I thought I was at brushing and flossing.

House calls are not rare here, it is fairly common for your doctor to stop by to see if you are better and check on you.  No additional charge. 

Nurses provide medical care, beds for family are routinely available in hospital rooms. It is inconceivable to most Mexicans that a family member would spend even a minute in a hospital without loved ones at their side.  So, a lot of the feeding and helping to the bathroom functions are done by family members not nurses. Only in isolation or intensive care areas is visiting by immediate family restricted. 

I have good medical plan choices from my retirement, currently I have Kaiser. I'm thinking of switching that to a Blue Cross type plan as many of those will reimburse you for medical expenses here.  I also carry a SkyMed policy that will fly either of us to our hospital of record and provide a driver to bring our RV north.  Once we move into the house in Merida I will reevaluate which of these I need.  For day to day medical, I pay out of pocket as the costs are low.  So far we've only needed the occasional doctor visit for the flu or an infection.  There are several medical insurance options here, one that is the government medical which would be the least attractive but would work, private plans provide more and are available until the age of around 63.  I have a couple years to think about that one.  Those plans also provide small amounts (+/- $50k US) for treatment in other countries like the US, designed for stabilizing you if you get sick while traveling - that amount won't go far in the US.  I'm a belt + suspenders kind of person so I will probably keep my US policy, especially since it is so cheap, go for the Plan B with Medicare, and maybe buy one of the policies here too.

Offline LeeAnne151

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Re: Jonna's Tropical Ruin
« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2007, 05:24:10 PM »
This is all quite fascinating. Love the tiles, see the enormous potential in the house. Congratulations.
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